Puppy information

CHIHUAHUAS AND HYPOGLYCEMIA

Small dogs especially Chihuahuas, have a very low fat reserve around the liver. Hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) takes place in the nervous system. It occurs in mainly toy breeds between six weeks and twelve months of age. Often it is precipitated by stress. This disturbance should particularly be looked for in puppies that are just brought home from the breeder.

The first signs are those of listlessness and depression. They are followed by muscular weakness, tremors (especially facial muscles), and later convulsions, coma and death. The entire sequence is not always seen. The dog may simply appear to be depressed or he may be weak, wobbly and jerky; or he may be found in a coma.

Hypoglycemia can occur without warning when a puppy is placed in a new home, or while being shipped. It might appear after a puppy misses a meal, chills, becomes exhausted from too much playing, or has a digestive upset. These upsets place an added strain on the energy reserves of the liver and bring on symptoms (if the dog is susceptible).

Puppies who are weaned on rice and hamburger are more likely to develop hypoglycemia. We do not wean our puppies on this type of diet because the certain ingredients needed to sustain the liver are absent.

TREATMENT: Treatment is directed at restoring blood levels of glucose. Begin at once. Prolong or repeated attacks can cause permanent damage to the brain. If the puppy is awake, give him Karo Syrup, honey or sugar in the mouth. We recommend, Nutri-Cal supplement, found in tube form from your pet store. He will begin to improve in 30 minutes. When he is unconscious he will have to be given a Dextrose solution intravenously from the vet. It may be necessary to treat for swelling of the brain. Your veterinarian should be called at once.

PREVENTION: Prevent recurrent attacks by feeding a high quality kibble diet and add to it sugar, syrup or honey. See the puppy eats at least every eight hours and receives a daily vitamin.

Breeders should wean puppies on a balanced diet as we do. Food supplements should not exceed 10 percent of the total ration. Owners of toy puppies should not overtire them or allow them to chill.

If you have any questions, please give us a call.

Puppy List

Foods:

Cottage cheese

Plain Yogurt

Scrambled Egg

Purina Puppy Chow in blue and white bag

Pedigree canned food

And foods out of the human baby food section of the store

Rice and boiled chicken

Nothing greasy or salty

Nutra Cal or sugar water if low in energy (hypoglycemic)

Things Not to do:

Rest area stops

Parks

Unattended on high areas

Swimming pools

When going to the vet do not expose the puppy to anything except the exam table. (sick animals go to the vet)

If you have any questions please call or send me an e-mail.

DIET AND CHANGES

 

Nervousness or change of diet may cause diarrhea. If diarrhea lasts for more than 24 hours, consult a veterinarian. All of our puppies are released with at least 1 pound of the puppy food they have been fed here. If you plan to change the puppy's diet, do so gradually by mixing some of his regular food with the new food for several days before switching entirely to the new brand. This will help to prevent stomach upsets.

If your puppy refuses to eat the first couple days, give 1 cc Nutri Stat or Nutri Cal by mouth 1 to 3 times a day. This stimulates appetite & relives stress. If the pup still won't eat after giving the Nutri Stat or Nutri Cal, consult your veterinarian.

Another good appetite booster is boiled and skimmed beef ground round and plain steamed white rice. This will also help firm up any loose stools and calm the puppy's stomach. This method is occasionally used in veterinary clinics and is considered a very natural and safe method to help boost the appetite and help with any upsets.

CRATE TRAINING YOUR PUPPY

When dogs are in the wild, they live in a den. This makes them feel safe & secure. In your home, his crate is their den. Crate training should begin as soon as you bring your new puppy home. He should be encouraged to sleep & rest in his crate. He should be coaxed in, not forced. A small treat can be used & always give him lots of praise. At first, he may try to back out or become very timid. This is normal. Just give your puppy time and eventually the pup will be going in on their own. In the beginning, don't close the door. Let your puppy go in and out as they please until comfortable with the situation. Once the puppy is comfortable, restrain the puppy with your hand in the doorway. Eventually, your puppy will feel comfortable enough to have the door closed. A puppy should be kept in a crate whenever not supervised.*

A puppy instinctively knows not to "mess" in his crate, but does need to go out every 2 to 4 hours when young. Make sure you take your puppy out frequently to create a "schedule". Leave an approved chew toy in the crate to help satisfy the need to chew. Eventually, as the puppy grows into a full grown dog, your pet will then use the crate with the door open as their den.

*Please note that a puppy or dog should never be left in a closed crate for extended lengths of time, such as all day while the owners are at work. This is entirely too long to be left in a crate! Above all make sure the temperature inside the crate is kept well within a comfortable range. Even short periods of time in a crate that is too hot can become hazardous. If you will be away for extended periods, a blocked off portion or room in the house with an easy care floor such as a kitchen would be more appropriate. Child gates also work nicely to help block entrance or exits. Placing newspapers and or puppy pads in the room will also help if your puppy is accustomed to this method of training. You can also leave the crate in this room with the door propped open so the pup may have access to their "den".

CHILDREN AND PETS

It is always a good practice to keep a watchful eye on young children with new pets. Children must also learn to respect living things and to enjoy participating in responsibility and they must learn that like humans, puppy's also have needs. All family members should take an active part in meeting these needs sharing the responsibility of the exercise, feeding, cleaning and care. Grooming is also a good way to create bonds between family members and pets.

A word of caution to all families with small children. Children are known to "love a puppy to death" squeezing or hugging the animal in ways that could be irritating or even painful. Some children also tease and taunt while the puppy is resting or eating, children also must be taught how to gently stroke and handle the puppy and parental guidance is always a must. Children should also learn the proper way of supporting a puppy with both hands and not to be lifted by the scruff of the neck, or by any other method that is inappropriate. Always demonstrate to young children the proper way of supporting, transporting or holding a dog.

GOOD NEIGHBOR POLICY

Along with good general practices it is always recommended to consider friends and neighbors. For the sake and safety of not only your pet but for others, (pets and people included), it is a good practice to keep your puppy confined to your own yard. Do not allow your pet to roam freely. Be considerate of others and considerate of the dog's safety. An unsupervised pet can be open for disaster. Cars and trucks, or any moving vehicle are a hazard along with other stray dogs or animals and possibly dognappers or sadistic people that can bring your puppy harm. There are also other hazards such as poisons all around. Automotive Antifreeze, toxic plants, or even rotted garbage which can be proven fatal if swallowed. Not only can your puppy or dog get in trouble, but there are many ordinances in cities and towns that impose regulations and ultimately you, your family and pet could pay the price. Starting with the proper attitude and precautions will help everyone and your puppy, being a responsible pet owner is the way to go.

LEASHES AND COLLARS

Leashes and collars are also a good practice especially during exercise time. Nylon collars and leashes are quite durable and inexpensive, there are also harnesses that can be used that are quite adaptable. Early introduction to leashes and collars will prove later to be very helpful when going on walks. As your puppy grows, always make sure to check the fit, some people simply do not realize the collars can become too tight, especially with long haired dogs. Collars are also a helpful preventative if your pet is lost. Identification and vaccination tags may be kept on the collars in case such an event should occur. When using a leash to walk your puppy, be sure not to drag your puppy when they do not yet understand. Try to encourage and use plenty of praise and learn to have your puppy walk with you, not ahead of you tugging you or you dragging the you and people wherever you go. Using good common sense will help in many ways keep a healthy happy relationship for all. Leashes and collars are also helpful when taking your puppy on trips.

THE FIRST FEW DAYS

Your puppy might be a bit nervous the first few days. Everything from sights, smells, people, and even other pets. These are all different from the pups normal routine and for the first time will be away from Dame and littermates. Allow the puppy to explore his new surroundings and learn of things the pup is or isn't allowed to do. Puppy's love to explore and will adjust to their new surroundings usually very easily. At Holidays, and or family gatherings, please be careful with a new puppy. Along with lots of love and security make sure it has plenty of rest time and quiet time, possibly in it's own room and away from the crowds. You sure do not want to stress the puppy by overwhelming it with too many and too much all at once.

Introducing your new puppy to the family and home can be a wonderful experience. There are however some things to consider. If you are introducing a new puppy with an already established pet or pets, you may want to do it gradually and give the new pup a chance to get to know the established pet to help avoid any rough confrontations. Sometimes established pets can be rather territorial and although it is natural for them to defend their family and home, as a precaution, taking it slow would be the best recommendation. Once the scent becomes familiar and less threatening, acceptance usually follows. If a fight breaks out, immediate separation is recommended, then re-introduction in a gradual manner. Love and patience on your part will help this transition go smooth.

Toys and rawhides are good to have handy giving the puppy a sense of having things that belong to the pup. The same is true for bedding, if you wish for your puppy to have one or more designated places to bed, introducing the pup with praise will let them know the bed is for them.

Behavior patterns are set early on, your puppy will be learning how to respect and trust you and family members, provided with proper care and a fair share of attention will give you a wonderful companion for many years to come.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Puppy Care

 

So you’ve decided to bring home a new puppy, Congratulations! But are you ready for this furry bundle of joy in your life? Here are some things you need to consider as you bring your new puppy home:

-Puppy-Proof Your Home

Get down on your hands and knees and look for anything that could be dangerous for a 2-year-old child and move it to a safe place. Check for electrical cords, plants, cleaning solutions, etc. Put child safety latches on any cabinets containing cleaners or chemicals.

-Choose a Vet

If you don't already have a veterinarian, you'll need to pick one. Your puppy will be seeing the vet a lot in the first year. We’ve included your puppy’s vaccine and de-worming records in your paperwork, bring these with you on your first visit to the vet.

-Read a Book on Dog Training

If its been a while since you've raised a puppy it is a good idea to brush up on your training skills. Well-behaved dogs don't magically appear -- they take work on your part.

-Crate

Buy one that matches the breed you chose, one that isn't too large or too cramped, a proper sized crate will make housebreaking easier.

-Leash and Collar

Get a collar specifically made for puppies, one that can expand as she grows. No choke collars for small puppies! A standard 6-foot leash is the best for a puppy.

-Toys

Pick out a few to entertain your puppy. Make sure the toys don't have small pieces that can be broken off and swallowed.

-Food and Water Dishes

Several types of food/water bowls are available, stainless steel and glazed crockery are the easiest to keep clean. Plastic bowls can sometimes harbor bacteria if they become scratched, and are also more easily tipped over.

-Food

Feed a high quality Puppy Ration like IAMS PUPPY, EUKANUBA,or PEDIGREE Puppy. Discuss with your puppy's veterinarian what food to choose, switching foods suddenly can cause diarrhea. If you do change foods, make the switch slowly. Also it’s not a good idea to get in the habit of feeding table scraps to your new puppy as it will usually decrease the pups appetite for the vitamin rich pet food it needs during the developmental first year.

-Feeding Instructions

The actual amount of puppy food per feeding may vary depending on the size/breed of pet you have. But the most important thing is that your new puppy gets all that it wants during this important developing period, (8 wks - 1 yr), of fresh food and fresh clean water. We recommend keeping the water/feed in an area near the pups bed and be sure to allow your new puppy plenty of time alone to eat, rest, and learn the new surroundings of this new home. We recommend leaving fresh dry ration available all day and soft or canned food in small amounts or as a treat once or twice daily.

- Monitor Your New Puppy’s General Health

Think of your new puppy just as you would a new baby in your home. Totally depending on you for every need. If your puppy isn’t eating, drinking, resting, or playing normally, there’s usually a reason. EARLY DETECTION is the key with these little guys.

-Special Needs for Special Breeds-

Be aware of any special needs your pet may have. A little research will go a long way toward helping you and your pet have a long, healthy life together. One example of these special needs is occasional hypoglycemia among tiny toys and terriers during the first twelve weeks of age. The recommended easy remedy is simply to add HONEY daily to their diet as a natural blood sugar elevator. We do this as a healthy precaution with all tiny toy puppies.

Information and advice contained on this site is for your consideration only. Please consult your veterinarian for specific advice concerning the care and treatment of your pet.

 

 

 

Care for Your New Puppy

Supplies Your New Puppy Will Need

1. premium pet food to get your new puppy off to a good start.

2. Food and water bowls.

3. Identification tag, collar and leash.

4. Travel crate to accommodate your puppy's adult size.

5. Stain remover for accidents and spills.

6. Brushes or combs for your new puppies coat.

7. Dog shampoo, toothbrush and tooth paste..

8. Safe chew toys to ease teething.

9. Flea, tick and parasite controls.

10. Nail clippers.

11. Tasty reward treats –.

Bringing Home Your New Puppy

Your new puppy is just like a newborn baby adjusting to a new home! The environment will be different and your new puppy will be surrounded by new faces and voices. This is all a bit overwhelming, so make sure that the puppy has quiet time to rest and adjust.

Basic Training

No one wants to have an uncontrollable dog. It is very important that you start training your dog when they are puppies. Start off by teaching your puppy their name. Repetition is the key when training your puppy. They will learn their name after they hear it over and over. Remember to be patient with you puppy.

Just a few tips:

• Spend 5 to 10 minutes at a time training twice daily.

• Keep the tone in your voice consistent to avoid any confusion with your puppy.

• Be serious during training.

• Stay calm and keep your patience. Your puppy will not understand what is happening if you loose your

patience.

• Never hit your puppy. Use the term "no" firmly to correct your puppy.

• End your training sessions with a treat and praise.

Picking Up Your New Puppy

Try not to pick up your new puppy too often. When they are this young they are very delicate. It is important that you follow these steps:

• Use both hands when you pick up your new puppy.

• Place one hand under his rear and the other on his chest.

• Hold your puppy against your body to keep him secure an Bathing

Teething and Chewing

Your new puppy will need some chewing toys when their teeth are coming through. To avoid them chewing on you furniture or any other forbidden item you will want to make sure that you have toys such as a rubber ball or bone. Play games with your puppy and their chewing toys. Remember to praise your puppy for chewing on the chew toys and not the valuables in your home. If your puppy starts to chew on things that are forbidden, then simply state "no" firmly and give him a chew toy instead.

Giving your puppy too many baths can strip his skin and natural oils in the coat. Therefore, bathe your puppy only when he needs it. It is safe to bathe your puppy once they are 6 weeks old. You can bathe your puppy in a tub or sink. When the weather is warm you can bathe them outside and let them dry naturally. It is important that they do not get cold or chill.

Grooming

Regular grooming is essential for most dogs. It is important to keep their coats clean from dirt and free of any parasites that may rest in their coats. You can take him to your local pet shop or grooming shop to have this done. The longer the coat on the dog the more upkeep there is to maintain. Proper brushing is essential for many breeds and it is important to get your puppy used to this at a young age.

PLEASE NOTE: Do not use Flea & Tick shampoo on your puppy until they are 6 months old.

Exercise

Your puppy will be energetic and need to have the proper amount of exercise per day to maintain overall health. Each breed is different and requires different levels of activity. Please consult your veterinarian for more details. Your dog will love a large enclosed area to run around in. Walking your puppy is a good start for getting your puppy exercise and begin their training program.

House Training

It is important to begin this process as soon as you bring your puppy home. The longer you wait the harder it is to break any bad puppy habits. To begin, make sure that your puppy goes outside to do his business after eating and waking up after a nap or first thing in the morning. Sure signs that a puppy needs to go outside are whining by the door, walking around the house and moving in circles. Praise your puppy when he does his business outside. If your puppy has an accident do not raise your voice, yell, hit your puppy or put his face in it. He is too young to understand why you are scolding him. Just remember to use a firm "no" when they have an accident. If you catch your puppy in the act, quickly take him outside and praise him when he is done.

PLEASE NOTE: One of the very best methods for housebreaking your new puppy is crate training. It is not only the quickest method, but also helps keep both your puppy and home safe when you are out of the house or busy with day-to-day activities.

Your New Puppy's Health

Just as children pick up illnesses from other children, puppies can pick up colds, coughs, and illnesses from other dogs. Serious illness can usually be prevented by vaccine, but always report symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhea, listlessness or lack of appetite to your vet. Some easily treated puppy illnesses include kennel cough and respiratory infection (colds). Parasites (worms) are found in almost every puppy. All of these conditions, can be treated by your veterinarian. It is important for your puppy's health and well being that you visit a veterinarian for a check-up within the first few days. Preventative care and vaccinations greatly improve the quality of your puppy's life. After your puppy's initial shots, annual check-ups are suggested for good health.

Traveling with Your Puppy

When traveling with your puppy start them off on short 10-minute trips. For example, take your puppy to the pet store, veterinarian or nearby park to play. You want to get your puppy in the car at a young age and do not wait until they are grown. You can gradually increase your rides with your puppy after they are comfortable with the short trips.

Just a few tips:

• Take a passenger the first few times to watch over your puppy.

• It's a good idea to wait and feed your puppy after the car ride. If you have to feed before it is good to wait

a few hours before getting into the car.

• Make sure your puppy has a chance to relieve himself before the ride.

• Take along your puppies favorite toy.

• Keep air moving through the car at all times. Do not roll your car windows down too far.

• Make sure that when you go on long rides you stop every hour or two. Your puppy will need water,

exercise and may need to relieve himself.

• Reward your puppy at the end of your journey. Breeder's Choice treats and praise are the best!

 

 

 

DO’S AND DON’TS OF RECALL TRAINING

 

I sometimes wonder if "dog-sledding" was invented when some Eskimos gave up trying to train their dogs to come when called and tied them to their sleds instead. Okay, just kidding! But seriously, if we don’t train our dogs to come when we call them, we may have to treat them as hostages!

I think we all must know at least one person who has to watch the open front door or yard gate like a hawk when the dog is nearby lest Fluffy make a break for it and fail to return. Having a dog who comes immediately when you call it is sometimes a happy accident of nature. More often, it’s the product of lengthy training, repetition and rewards. But before you throw up your hands and say, "Oh no, not another boring skill I’m going to have to drill Fido in for the rest of his life!", consider the alternative. If your dog cannot be depended upon to instantly return to your side when you call him, you will either be stuck keeping him on a very short leash, or risk losing him to a host of dangers ranging from heavy traffic to wild animals to just plain getting lost.

There are two basic parts to the "recall rule". The first is to always treat your dog or puppy nicely every time he comes to you – kind words or a pat on the head are a must because little treats reinforce the good feelings. The second rule is to have a line, from six to twenty feet long, on the dog so that every time you want him, you can get him back by simply reeling in the line if he doesn’t come on his own steam. With this method, the dog is held responsible for his behavior, but you have to make sure you do your part too. Repetition is a must, and you must be careful that the dog doesn’t get a chance to bolt from you while you’re reeling him in.

Even if the dog is standing still when you’ve called and the dog does not move, that still means that he’s not coming. If you have a line on him, reel him in. If you don’t, then go get him and bring him back to where you wanted him. When this happens, give no rewards, and also no punishment. He did neither what you wanted him to do, nor something bad by leaving, so you just want to downplay the situation and try again some other time.

Remember to enforce the behavior that you want immediately. Don't keep repeating a command over and over...the dog should respond to the first command. This process can be long. A month is certainly not enough, even a year may not be, but you’ll reap rewards for your diligence. But if it’s that simple, why do we have so much trouble getting our dogs to come? Probably because we didn’t do the above every time we wanted the dog to come to us. By not insisting Fido come every time we called him and on the first command to come when we started our training, we taught him he didn’t really have to do it.

Your dog learns a negative lesson if, after you’ve called him and he just sits there or trots off, you start chasing him around the yard. Wanting to throttle him when you finally catch him is a perfectly understandable human reaction. FIGHT IT OFF! Unfortunately, acting on these impulses will set you back even farther – your dog will start to fear you, particularly when you’re angry, and will try to put even more distance between you and him in the future.

A dog will be a dog, and he learns much from your actions. Picture yourself at 10 p.m. in your robe and slippers, letting him out before going to bed. If he doesn’t come right back in when you think he should, you stand at the screen door, unwilling to go outside in your pajamas, and start screaming his name. At this point, the dog doesn’t care that you feel foolish, frustrated, embarrassed and are in no position to chase him. He’s probably afraid of you by now, and will come in later when he darn well pleases. In a nutshell, you’ve unintentionally sent the dog away by not being prepared to reinforce your command RIGHT HERE and RIGHT NOW! Next time, resist the urge to put on your pajamas until the dog has been let out for the last time. Then, if he doesn’t come back in the first time you call him, go out in the yard and calmly, matter-of-factly, retrieve him immediately. The dog has to believe you will enforce your commands.

If, despite your best intentions and efforts, your situation has gotten out of hand and you’ve had some close calls, then seek professional help. Electronic collar conditioning may be your only or last resort, but you must have professional help for this process. Electronic collars, when used properly, can be a wonderful training device.

This sounds drastic, but remember that running away, or not coming when called, can result in serious injury or death to your pet. Untrained dogs are an endangered species. Just ask your humane society how many dogs are euthanized for behavior problems or are strays with no one to adopt them. If we are to hold our dogs responsible for their actions, we must be aware of what part we play in influencing their behavior as well.

 

 

 

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Electric Collar Conditioning

 

 

One of the simplest and most humane training aids I have found for working with dogs is the electronic collar. This is a device which, when placed on a dog's neck, allows a trainer to deliver small electric shocks of varying strength by remote control.

It is also unquestionably the most controversial subject I'm ever likely to bring up in this training column. Many people quiver at the thought of administering a tiny jolt of electricity as a correction to their beloved pet, while not thinking twice about giving Fido a much more painful whack on the muzzle for stepping out of line, or hauling him, gasping, off his feet with a "choke" collar when training him to heel.

So this time in the interest of letting you know all about your training options, we're going to take the bull by the horns and give you an introduction to electronic collars. Let the bouquets and brickbats fall where they may!

The benefits of working with this type of collar should be obvious - the trainer can immediately correct a dog's mistakes at a distance far greater than leash training allows. This is a virtual necessity in training field dogs.

But the potential for abuse and misuse of these devices is also great. They should be used only by professional dog trainers, or after you have had proper training in how to use them. I even suggest that you visit a gun dog or field trial trainer to see current training practices and how dogs behave on the collars. If you are considering using an electronic collar, you need to be able to evaluate your own dog's "tenderness" to this training method. It could be that a remote control collar that delivers "noise only" stimulation is enough for your dog.

Basic collars and their costs vary. There are "bark collars" and "bark diminishes" that emit stimulation every time a dog barks. Some can be programmed to let a dog bark for up to thirty seconds before automatically firing off a small shock, so that your dog learns its okay to warn you about intruders, but not to bay at the moon all night.

The "training collars," however, are controlled by the dog handler and vary in working range from 200 yards to a mile. In some of the newer, more sophisticated collars, the transmitter allows you to vary the intensity of the shock without having to adjust the collar by hand.

To give your dog a fair shake, you must begin with conventional (line) training. An electronic collar is not an "easy out" or a magic time-saving device to speed up training. It is simply another correction tool, albeit a very powerful one.

As in line training, your being "on the ball" in terms of giving commands forcefully, rewarding good behavior enthusiastically, and making corrections immediately, means everything. The same No. 1 Rule applies in line training and electronic collar conditioning - do not use commands that you cannot enforce! If you want to call your dog to you and have no way to get him there if he refuses, then DON'T CALL HIM!

Initially, basic obedience skills reworked with the line and the collar on. The lowest effective shock strength should be used, just enough to see the dog twitch his ears. If he barks or howls, you've got the stimulation set too strong. To be effective, the electronic collar must be on very snugly so that the metal contacts connect with the dog's neck. It is very important not to shock the dog before the command is given! At Taproot Kennel, we introduce dogs to the electronic collar on the recall command, working several minutes a day on recall for four or five consecutive days.

If you are doing this at home, being in a quiet place, and then gradually increase your distractions. The premise is simple. Call the dog, and then administer the stimulation until he arrives at your side. The dog quickly learns that his safest place is with you, and that this extra irritation disappears when he is at your side. If training has gone well, you should be able to take your dog off the long lead line for recall training in about a week, and just work the dog with the electronic collar.

A dog that lives in your house often has the distinct advantage of knowing you all too well, and will capitalize on your faults as a trainer during sessions. Develop a way of giving commands authoritatively, without pleading or wheedling. An important part of these sessions is also to motivate your dog both before and after, with praise, enthusiasm, even treat rewards.

The electronic collar is most effective on behavior problems that have been resistant to other techniques, with the exception of unprovoked aggression. Excessive barking, car chasing, deer chasing, are all problems easily trained with electronic collars, if properly used. Other widely known successes include boundary training for dogs who must live in unfenced yards.

My own opinion is that once you've worked a dog on an electronic collar, you'll never be without one. An obedient dog will enjoy and share more of your life. I make no apologies for loving my dogs so much that I will use every modern training device to make their lives happier and safer.

 

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Good Dogs Are Made, Not Born

We have a major problem in the U. S. today. Our dogs and our people aren't getting along. The bond begins to break in early puppyhood when house soiling, chewing, biting and other problems aren't stopped.

You'll notice I said "stopped," and not just "controlled". If these habits are not stopped cold, bigger problems usually follow, particularly during a dog's adolescent stage. If and when the dog finally makes it to adulthood (normally two years of age), one of three things can happen: (1) the long-suffering will learn to live with the monsters they have created; (2) those who are "fed up" will get rid of the dog by selling it, giving it away, surrendering it to a humane society or having it euthanized; or (3) those with patience will finally being to take control and train the dog.

All three can be avoided by proper training in the early stages of a dog's life.

Most people think they can easily live with a dog -- any dog. But without the knowledge of how to properly train our dogs and the ability to physically enforce the training, we can't. In most cases we need to learn -- via classes, private instruction, books -- how to train our dogs. We also need to discipline ourselves in order to repeat the basic exercises ("sit," "stay", "come") until they are second nature to our canines, and to enforce our rules on our pets.

There are many techniques that can be used to train a dog. Most important, however, is that the owner be willing to use the techniques, and to set and follow a course of action. Proper dog training is not a "quick fix" - it is an ongoing, life-long process.

By now, you're probably saying to yourself, "I don't want to deal with a method, all I want is a pet." But what you really want is, in fact, a pretty tall order. All you'd like is for an infant dog to assimilate - with no hitches - our modern, urban human society with all of its complexities.

You'd like the puppy to learn, although it doesn't speak a language, that is should not eliminate in the two thousand square foot area we call the "house," but that it should do so on the grass or soil - and, if leashed, only when you allow it to. You'd also like the puppy to eat whatever you put down when you feed him, and to never touch food above his head.

You'd like him to sleep when you do, even though you've left him alone all day and he's slept most of that time. He also should not whine or bark because that is considered to be disturbing, and should ride quietly in a car, walk by your side both on and off the leash, always come when called, and never leave the yard even if you leave him unattended for hours.

Well, dogs are made and not born into the above requirements. And to get them to that stage, you must train, and train, and train again. Whether you teach from books, classes, private instruction or your own past experiences, you must teach a dog to do what you want it to. That teaching, too, must be at a level the dog can understand.

You need a direction, you need patience, and you need time. Typically, you can expect to spend a year working on the basics, and two years for more advanced training. It seems like a long time when you're just starting. But if you follow through, a lifetime of companionship and unconditional love will then be yours.

 

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"WE'RE GETTING A DOG FOR THE KIDS "

Kids and dogs, puppies and kids, all those cute images from dog food commercials and camera ads and old "Lassie" reruns. Ahh, the power of myth!

Yes, it seems quite natural to think that children and dogs go together. I've heard it said hundreds of times that "we're thinking of getting a dog for the kids." For many prospective dog owners, it seems logical to assume that the dog will entertain the children, teach them a sense of responsibility, and be a willing and affectionate companion.

Well, if you're still in that starry-eyed thinking stage, stay there until the idea matures into the realization that you're bringing another living being into your home, and that this new family member deserves an unconditional and lifetime commitment. Be aware also that not every dog is an entertainer, a teacher, or even a willing companion. And to top it off, just like people, the new dog or puppy may take an instant dislike to one or all of your children!

Still with me? Great! It could very well be that getting a dog or puppy "for the kids" will still turn out to be the best thing you could do for your family. But understanding your dog's needs and your children's limitations is the key to getting off to a good start. Understand also that expecting a new dog to fill a void in a child's life caused by divorce or the death of a parent is expecting too much from a canine companion. Yes, it can work on rare occasion, but the odds are really against you.

While some people are instinctively good with animals, most of them are not. I have a gut feeling that the ones who are "good" with dogs somehow learned from the generation before them just how to live with a dog. Mom and Dad were probably there to supervise the interaction between dog and child from the start, and served as good role models in caring and coping with the new canine member of the family.

Similarly, you must anticipate doing the same for your children if this venture is to succeed. Assuming that you've done all the right things in searching for the kind of dog you want - reading up on breeds, visiting litters, talking with owners, etc. - and have picked out the dog of your dreams, bringing him home is the first important step in the process.

Bring the animal home when there's not a lot of commotion going on (Christmas, Easter, birthdays are not a good time for this!) Pick a time when you have a weekend at least or a few days off to spend lots of time with the kids and the dog. Start a feeding and exercise schedule for the dog, and stick with it. It isn't as important who does the chores for the dog as the fact that they get done with consistency. It may help to write the schedule down, stick it on the refrigerator door and check things off when the jobs are done.

Show your children how to play with the new dog. (We throw the ball 'for' the dog, and not 'at' the dog, Junior"). Dogs have very sharp hearing, and so keep the youthful squealing and yelling to a minimum. Show them how to pet the dog - easily, gently, with no tugging, scratching or pulling hair. Step in and stop the child who puts a "bone-crusher" hug on the new pet.

Teach your toddler that dog food is not human food, and to leave the dog dishes alone! Fido can get quite upset about competition from Junior at his food bowl, and ugly feelings can develop. Teach all your children not to hand-feed the dog. It's not good for the dog's diet, and it's certainly not appropriate and possibly dangerous if your toddler tries to mimic this on his own. Also, it might result in your dog being fed Play-Doh when you're not looking!

Remember, if you have very small children and decide to buy a very small, cute puppy, in six months Junior will still be about 25 pounds. Rover, on the other hand, could weigh upwards of sixty pounds, all wrapped up in a wiggly, rambunctious package that can make your toddler's first steps an obstacle course!

If you are truly committed to getting a dog for the family, keep in mind these three rules:

1. Rationally consider the demands of caring for a new pet while taking care of small children, and decide whether this is the right time for you to take on this extra responsibility.

2. Supervise all dog-and-child interactions so that both children and pet are protected.

3. Teach by example, and learn how to care for the dog. Let your children learn from a good role model.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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YOUR PUPPY'S NEW HOME

Houses are made for people - not dogs - and so one of the first steps you need to take when you bring the puppy home to meet the rest of the family is to "puppy-proof" your house. Doing this beforehand can save a lot of frustration with your young canine.

Puppies are forever running into and over things, and your crystal, glass and ceramic knickknacks will be no exception. Electrical cords and scatter rugs are, from the puppy's perspective, wonderful teething opportunities. Carpets feel like the grass outside, only better, so why bother to go out to relieve himself?

If you plan to spend your time training and bonding with your pup instead of patching up one disaster after another, then pick up, put away, or restrict the pup's access to carpeting, doo-dads and hanging cords and tassels.

Plan from Day #1 where the dog will and will not be permitted to go, and don't deviate from it. As a general rule, keep the dog off the sofa, chairs and beds unless you make a commitment to a lot of extra cleaning and refurnishing. Don't blame the dog! He would never have curled up on the sofa if someone hadn't either coaxed him or decided not to correct him. Mind you, I'm not saying it's wrong to let your dog on the bed or sofa - that's where mine stay! But on a muddy day, I know I'll have a lot of extra work both before and after they come into the house.

Before your puppy comes home you should have acquired a "crate" or, at the very least, a portable gate to fence off a portion of the house for the puppy. You should crate the puppy whenever you cannot supervise his activities.

Some people will look at a standard dog crate made of metal or plastic and erroneously assume it's cruel to confine a dog to a small space. In fact, getting your puppy accustomed to a crate has many benefits for both of you. First, it give a dog a sense of enclosed shelter and security, which it would seek in the wild. (Many an adult dog still retreats to the relative peace and safety of his open crate when the house is full of noisy visitors.) Second, it keeps a young dog from getting into unforeseen trouble when you're not around. And third, it is a tremendous aid in housebreaking.

It is not, however, an instant housebreaking solution. While it's generally true that a dog will not soil the place where he sleeps, it can take a while for a puppy to catch on to that idea. For that reason, for house training a puppy I prefer a plastic crate with nothing but the puppy in it - no toys, food or blankets. The plastic cleans up easily, and contains the mess until I can get to it.

As puppies and cleaning are synonymous, so are puppies and staining. If you're a finicky housekeeper, prepare yourself for extra work. For help in dealing with assorted stains and disasters, a very good book to read is Pet Clean Up Made Easy, by Don Aslett. It contains excellent suggestions for preventing , cleaning and controlling any animal mess.

While many dogs spend most of their lives indoors, outdoor shelters are certainly acceptable provided certain conditions are met. In my opinion, tying or chaining a dog to a stake with a kennel house nearby is not acceptable. The reasons I do not care for this approach are twofold. First, it leaves your dog vulnerable to theft or harm by strangers. Second, if your dog is teased or agitated by someone, it could bite or otherwise harm a person. Dogs have "fight or flight" instincts - if they feel threatened and can find no avenue out, they will almost certainly turn and attack. You may say, well and good, no one should be trespassing by your dog anyway. But the law will take a dim view of your dog's actions if a child or another innocent party is hurt - from a legal perspective, you did not take reasonable precautions to protect people on your property.

In my opinion, a proper outside kennel would consist of a six by ten foot concrete slab, surrounded by a chain link fence six to seven feet high with a chain link top. Inside the enclosure there should be a leak-proof, insulated house with a door the dog can easily pass through. And put a padlock on the chain link gate. It's best if all of this is inside a fenced yard. Yes, it takes a lot of work and money, but that's how important it is for me to protect my dogs from urbanization. Someone can still come in and harm them when I'm gone, but at least I've taken reasonable precautions to avoid this.

 

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HOUSEBREAKING AND OTHER FUN

Once you've arrived home with your puppy from the breeder or the pound, your first lessons will commence almost immediately if this is to be a house dog. Of course, I'm talking about housebreaking or getting your dog to use the great outdoors for his bathroom rather than your brand new carpet.

But first, a few things to keep in mind. One is that a seven-week-old puppy already has established behavior patterns, and as far as the puppy is concerned, nothing is "wrong" in his eyes. Another is that it is easier to get a puppy or dog to "do" something than to "stop doing" or "not do" something. And the longer you are unsuccessful at trying to stop a particular behavior, the more likely it is that you will have to resort to more severe methods of discipline.

So from the very start, while dog training consists of both positive and negative (reward the good and reprimand the bad) aspects, it is to everyone's benefit to stress the positive side.

When your puppy first arrives at his new home and needs to relieve himself, convenience is going to be his only concern. If it is easier for him to relieve himself inside the house when he feels the urge, then he will take the easy way out.

I like to think that most situations and solutions in dog training have three elements - philosophy, method, and technique. Let's apply this to housebreaking. Your "philosophy" is to have a (relatively) clean house despite the arrival of an exuberant, messy puppy. The "method", therefore, is to know the signs of when your puppy is about to eliminate - crouching and straining after play, after eating and drinking, or upon waking. "Technique" comes into play here by getting him outside at the right time by walking him, kenneling him or even quickly carrying him.

Our training is only limited by two things - how faithful we are at carrying out our part of this dynamic, and realizing that the puppy part of the team really doesn't care about the outcome! Remember, the dog cares only about convenience at this point, so getting him to relieve himself to your satisfaction depends on how good you are at being in the right place at the right time.

However, when you verbally praise him for a job well done or even give him a tiny treat, you increase is desire to cooperate. Repetition with no mistakes is the key to teaching your dog.

Now, for the flip side of the coin. From the dog's perspective, relieving himself in the house is not a "wrong" behavior. So to avoid these frustrating accidents (that is, only from your perspective!), then make sure he is contained when you are unable to observe him. A "crate, " which we have discussed earlier, is wonderful since dogs hesitate to soil the place where they sleep, and even if they have an accident, then the mess is confined to a smaller area.

Another possibility is to attach your puppy to a six or eight foot leash and keep him with you as you go about your daily chores. If, despite your best intentions, he makes a mistake (remember, by your standards and not his!), then a firm shake on the nape of the neck coupled with a forceful "No!" and immediate removal outside should work.

All things considered, this is very basic training. If it goes badly at this early stage, you may not be destined for great things with your dog!

Common complaints by dog owners often run along the lines that the new puppy barks too much, doesn't come when called, pulls on the leash, and bites. All of these behaviors, of course, are things a puppy more or less does naturally, depending on his temperament. We know that some breeds are more vocal than others, more aggressive, more exuberant, more high strung. There are variations in temperament and noise, too, even among pups in the same litter.

Ideally, if you wanted a quiet house, you should have picked a quiet dog. Be that as it may, to train a pup to stop unwanted barking, start as soon as you get him by making a forceful correction when he barks, every time he barks. Give him a sharp shake or a flat-handed slap under the jaw with a verbal correction of "quiet," "no" or "out" Once your dog has reached six or seven months, if his barking is still out of control and creates a serious problem, it may be necessary to escalate to the use of an electronic "bark collar."

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All About Puppies

 

Well, you've really gone and done it now, haven't you? You just had to have a new puppy. If you are a veteran of the puppy rearing scene you surely can recall the excitement and enthusiasm you felt when you brought that furry little bundle home for the first time. And if this is your very first pup... there may be just a bit of "What have I done?" anxiety about this major moment in your life.

And well you should be just a bit anxious... owning and caring for a puppy is a huge responsibility. And with a bit of luck and good health care you should see that little rascal live well in to it's late teens.

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HEALTH CARE

One of the first things puppy owners want to know is

"What shots does the puppy get and when does the puppy get them?"

DISEASES TO PROTECT AGAINST

Take a look at the table below and you'll see an explanation of the different diseases that veterinarians can help protect your puppy against. A few of these are quite common, some are very deadly and an understanding of these diseases is important in puppy health care. You and your veterinarian can talk about which vaccinations should be given, how many times the vaccine should be administered to insure good protection, and when "Booster" shots should be done. (A "Booster" shot refers to giving a vaccine more than one time. The follow-up vaccinations will BOOST the immune level up higher and the patient will be even better protected from the disease. The word "SHOT" is rather slang. Injection is the better term.) Most puppies will get a combination vaccine, called a MULTIVALENT vaccine, which protects against more than one disease. This combination vaccine allows the puppy to be vaccinated via a single injection rather than having to receive four or five separate inoculations.

Multivalent vaccines are those that have more than one disease antigen combined into one injection.

A typical multivalent vaccine is the DHLPPCv vaccine for dogs. Instead of giving six different injections, all these "vaccines" or antigens can be given in a single small volume injection. Certainly this is easier on the dog than getting six separate injections.

DHLPPCv stands for:

D... Canine Distemper Virus... a dangerous viral infection. "Distemper" is an odd name for a viral infection and this disease has no relationship to nor connection with a dog's temperament.

H... Hepatitis...a viral infection caused by two related viruses that mainly affects the liver.

L... Leptospirosis... a bacterial infection affecting the kidneys. This class of bacteria can infect humans, cows, dogs, pigs and other mammals.

P... Parainfluenza... a virus that along with the Hepatitis virus can cause upper respiratory infections.

P... Parvovirus... a severe and often fatal virus affecting the lining of the intestinal tract.

Cv... Coronavirus... is very similar to the Parvovirus, can be very severe, but has a somewhat different effect on the intestinal tract and generally is not fatal.

Livin' the good life...

because I'm healthy!

WHEN TO VACCINATE

The best advice is to call your veterinarian before you pick up that new member of the family and ask to have the puppy examined as soon after you become the owner as possible. On your way home from the breeder/seller is actually a good time to have the pup seen by your veterinarian, and if you are able to you should bring in a stool sample from the pup for analysis for worms. Getting rid of any intestinal parasites is the first step in having the pup's nutritional efficiency at an optimum level.

During the examination the veterinarian will look at the pup's medical/vaccination history. If the breeder has given vaccinations just recently, and your veterinarian is confident that it was done properly, a recommendation will be made regarding when to come in for the next "booster" injection of vaccine. If the pup is healthy and unvaccinated, your veterinarian will suggest vaccinating right away. One or more of the vaccines listed in the table above will be administered and a suggestion made as to when the next visit should be scheduled. To see what is involved in a good physical exam look at this page.

Vaccination Schedule

This is just one veterinarian's general schedule of vaccinations for puppies. Your veterinarian's may be different.

Take an in-depth look at an article about vaccinations.

6 to 7 weeks of age: Give first combination vaccine. (Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus, Parainfluenza, Coronavirus)

9 weeks of age: Give second combination vaccine.

12 weeks of age: Give the third combination injection and possibly a LYME Vaccine inoculation. Generally a LYME vaccine is then repeated two weeks later, then once a year.

16 weeks of age: Give the last combination vaccine.

12 to 16 weeks of age: Rabies vaccine is given. (Local and State laws apply regarding Rabies vaccine since this can be a human disease, too. Your veterinarian will tell you the proper time intervals for booster vaccines for Rabies.)

 

Why so many? Good question! The reason is that no one can be sure that the pup will actually mount a good antibody response to the disease just from one vaccination. The age of the pup and just how much immunity it has received from its mother will complicate the "probability of protection". So... if the pup has lots of immunity (called PASSIVE IMMUNITY) that was borrowed from the mother during early nursing, this immunity will actually interfere with the pup's ability to make its own immunity from the vaccine challenge. The idea is to get the vaccine into the pup just as soon as the mother's passive immunity wears off (NOW the pup is very susceptible to sickness if it is exposed to the disease!) so that the pup can make more lasting immunity of its own. The precise time when a pup can respond well to a vaccine is variable... it might occur at 6 weeks of age or might be 12 weeks. So to be as safe as possible, why not start vaccinating at 6 weeks and end at 16 weeks? Almost 99 per cent of puppies will develop a good immune level to the various disease from a vaccine schedule similar to the one above.

CAUTION! If your puppy has any trouble breathing after a vaccination, or seems weak, staggers, has pale gums or seems at all unresponsive... get back to your veterinarian immediately!

 

On very rare occasions any animal or human may have a reaction to a vaccination. These are just like the reactions that can occur after an insect sting or medication hypersensitivity. This kind of reaction can be very serious and life-threatening and thankfully is very uncommon. If your pup simply seems a little tired or slightly uncomfortable where it was vaccinated, that is an entirely different and mild response to the vaccination. If you are not sure that your pup is OK, call your veterinarian for advice.

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THE FIRST FEW DAYS

 

Your puppy might be a bit nervous the first few days. Everything from sights, smells, people, and even other pets. These are all different from the pups normal routine and for the first time will be away from Dame and littermates. Allow the puppy to explore his new surroundings and learn of things the pup is or isn't allowed to do. Puppy's love to explore and will adjust to their new surroundings usually very easily. At Holidays, and or family gatherings, please be careful with a new puppy. Along with lots of love and security make sure it has plenty of rest time and quiet time, possibly in it's own room and away from the crowds. You sure do not want to stress the puppy by overwhelming it with too many and too much all at once.

 

Introducing your new puppy to the family and home can be a wonderful experience. There are however some things to consider. If you are introducing a new puppy with an already established pet or pets, you may want to do it gradually and give the new pup a chance to get to know the established pet to help avoid any rough confrontations. Sometimes established pets can be rather territorial and although it is natural for them to defend their family and home, as a precaution, taking it slow would be the best recommendation. Once the scent becomes familiar and less threatening, acceptance usually follows. If a fight breaks out, immediate separation is recommended, then re-introduction in a gradual manner. Love and patience on your part will help this transition go smooth.

 

Toys and rawhides are good to have handy giving the puppy a sense of having things that belong to the pup. The same is true for bedding, if you wish for your puppy to have one or more designated places to bed, introducing the pup with praise will let them know the bed is for them.

 

Behavior patterns are set early on, your puppy will be learning how to respect and trust you and family members, provided with proper care and a fair share of attention will give you a wonderful companion for many years to come.

 

DIET AND CHANGES

 

Nervousness or change of diet may cause diarrhea. If diarrhea lasts for more than 24 hours, consult a veterinarian. All of our puppies are released with at least 1 pound of the puppy food they have been fed here. If you plan to change the puppy's diet, do so gradually by mixing some of his regular food with the new food for several days before switching entirely to the new brand. This will help to prevent stomach upsets.

If your puppy refuses to eat the first couple days, give 1 cc Nutri Stat or Nutri Cal by mouth 1 to 3 times a day. This stimulates appetite & relives stress. A tube is sent home with each puppy. If the pup still won't eat after giving the Nutri Stat or Nutri Cal, consult your veterinarian.

 

Another good appetite booster is boiled and skimmed beef ground round and plain steamed white rice. This will also help firm up any loose stools and calm the puppy's stomach. This method is occasionally used in veterinary clinics and is considered a very natural and safe method to help boost the appetite and help with any upsets.

 

 

 

CRATE TRAINING YOUR PUPPY

 

When dogs are in the wild, they live in a den. This makes them feel safe & secure. In your home, his crate is their den. Crate training should begin as soon as you bring your new puppy home. He should be encouraged to sleep & rest in his crate. He should be coaxed in, not forced. A small treat can be used & always give him lots of praise. At first, he may try to back out or become very timid. This is normal. Just give your puppy time and eventually the pup will be going in on their own. In the beginning, don't close the door. Let your puppy go in and out as they please until comfortable with the situation. Once the puppy is comfortable, restrain the puppy with your hand in the doorway. Eventually, your puppy will feel comfortable enough to have the door closed. A puppy should be kept in a crate whenever not supervised.*

 

A puppy instinctively knows not to "mess" in his crate, but does need to go out every 2 to 4 hours when young. Make sure you take your puppy out frequently to create a "schedule". Leave an approved chew toy in the crate to help satisfy the need to chew. Eventually, as the puppy grows into a full grown dog, your pet will then use the crate with the door open as their den.

 

*Please note that a puppy or dog should never be left in a closed crate for extended lengths of time, such as all day while the owners are at work. This is entirely too long to be left in a crate! Above all make sure the temperature inside the crate is kept well within a comfortable range. Even short periods of time in a crate that is too hot can become hazardous. If you will be away for extended periods, a blocked off portion or room in the house with an easy care floor such as a kitchen would be more appropriate. Child gates also work nicely to help block entrance or exits. Placing newspapers and or puppy pads in the room will also help if your puppy is accustomed to this method of training. You can also leave the crate in this room with the door propped open so the pup may have access to their "den".

 

 

CHILDREN AND PETS

 

It is always a good practice to keep a watchful eye on young children with new pets. Children must also learn to respect living things and to enjoy participating in responsibility and they must learn that like humans, puppy's also have needs. All family members should take an active part in meeting these needs sharing the responsibility of the exercise, feeding, cleaning and care. Grooming is also a good way to create bonds between family members and pets.

A word of caution to all families with small children. Children are known to "love a puppy to death" squeezing or hugging the animal in ways that could be irritating or even painful. Some children also tease and taunt while the puppy is resting or eating, children also must be taught how to gently stroke and handle the puppy and parental guidance is always a must. Children should also learn the proper way of supporting a puppy with both hands and not to be lifted by the scruff of the neck, or by any other method that is inappropriate. Always demonstrate to young children the proper way of supporting, transporting or holding a dog.

 

 

 

GOOD NEIGHBOR POLICY

Along with good general practices it is always recommended to consider friends and neighbors. For the sake and safety of not only your pet but for others, (pets and people included), it is a good practice to keep your puppy confined to your own yard. Do not allow your pet to roam freely. Be considerate of others and considerate of the dog's safety. An unsupervised pet can be open for disaster. Cars and trucks, or any moving vehicle are a hazard along with other stray dogs or animals and possibly dognappers or sadistic people that can bring your puppy harm. There are also other hazards such as poisons all around. Automotive Antifreeze, toxic plants, or even rotted garbage which can be proven fatal if swallowed. Not only can your puppy or dog get in trouble, but there are many ordinances in cities and towns that impose regulations and ultimately you, your family and pet could pay the price. Starting with the proper attitude and precautions will help everyone and your puppy, being a responsible pet owner is the way to go.

 

 

 

LEASHES AND COLLARS

Leashes and collars are also a good practice especially during exercise time. Nylon collars and leashes are quite durable and inexpensive, there are also harnesses that can be used that are quite adaptable. Early introduction to leashes and collars will prove later to be very helpful when going on walks. As your puppy grows, always make sure to check the fit, some people simply do not realize the collars can become too tight, especially with long haired dogs. Collars are also a helpful preventative if your pet is lost. Identification and vaccination tags may be kept on the collars in case such an event should occur. When using a leash to walk your puppy, be sure not to drag your puppy when they do not yet understand. Try to encourage and use plenty of praise and learn to have your puppy walk with you, not ahead of you tugging you or you dragging the pup. Leashes and collars are also helpful when taking your puppy on trips. This will ensure that all are safe, your puppy, you and people wherever you go. Using good common sense will help in many ways keep a healthy happy relationship for all.

 

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Is he here yet?

The day has come! The new puppy will be at home when you get back from school!

The excitement of a new puppy can go on for a dozen years or more if you and your family take some precautions to keep your pet safe and healthy. Although all accidents and illnesses cannot be prevented, there are plenty of things you can do to reduce chances that your pet will suffer.

 

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First, a vet exam

First thing is to get Fluffy to a veterinarian for an examination and vaccination. Choose a veterinarian to visit regularly; don't count on the discounted shot clinics offered away from veterinary offices. Fluffy needs a personal doctor just as you do.

While you're at the veterinarian's office, ask questions about predispositions to medical problems. For example, some breeds are sensitive to skin or allergy problems, others to joint problems or bloat. The best place to get medical answers is from a qualified veterinarian.

After initial vaccinations are done, take Fluffy to the veterinarian for regular checkups, usually once a year, for boosters and a routine examination, and take him when you suspect or find a problem and when he's ill.

Now I understand you don't want to run to the veterinarian's office every day or week. There are some things you can and should do yourself to help insure his health and safety.

Clean, quality food and fresh water are a must. Fluffy's breeder and the veterinarian can help you select a food best suited to Fluffy. Food dishes must be kept clean, especially in hot weather when bacteria grow very rapidly. I recommend stainless steel dishes, elevated at least knee high for Fluffy. Stainless steel is nearly indestructible and can be sanitized very easily.

Exercise — physical and chewing — should be part of Fluffy's daily routine. Proper levels of exercise keep people and pets physically fit and help fight off disease. Exercise along with a proper feeding program should keep Fluffy from becoming overweight. Adjustments in food amounts and protein and fat levels need to be addressed as Fluffy ages — your veterinarian can help decide when changes are needed.

Chew toys help Fluffy relieve his natural chewing instinct in a positive manner and help keep his teeth clean. Regular toys help Fluffy occupy his time and enjoy himself while you're away.

Personal hygiene and grooming are part of everyone's daily life and should be part of Fluffy's life too. Have you ever smelled someone who hadn't bathed or used deodorant? Did you move away from them rather quickly? When were you last hot, tired, and really sweaty and dirty? Didn't a shower feel wonderful?

Well, Fluffy likes to be brushed and clean, too, and he's certainly a lot more pleasant to be around when he doesn't smell bad. You can handle some of the grooming at home; however, I recommend that all dogs be professionally groomed at least every 12 weeks. Many pets are bathed every week or two and groomed monthly or every six weeks because their owner's take pride in their pets' appearance.

Cleaning up the yard after Fluffy urinates and defecates can be a dirty job, but someone has to do it! Worm eggs leave the dog's body in the feces and worms can repeatedly re-infest the dog if the feces are not cleaned up. (The easiest way to deal with this job is to teach Fluffy to use one spot as a toilet so you always know where to look for the piles.)

You can do the clean-up chore right before an evening shower. If you have a hard time remembering to do the job, reward yourself afterwards with a fun romp with Fluffy or other special treat.

Do weekly home health inspections of Fluffy from head to tail and face to feet so you'll immediately know when something changes on his body or if an area becomes sensitive. Early detection can often save lives.

Basic obedience is important for every dog. I believe every pet should learn to obey "come," "sit," "down," "stay," "stand," and "stop." Many classes are available in the area; check the Bulletin board listings and the advertisements in Dog Owner's Guide to find a club or business near you.

Do a safety check of your house. Jot down problem areas as you check each room to see what dangers lie in wait for a puppy or dog. Things to watch for are electric cords that tempt puppy to chew or grab, cleaning rags or sponges left in puppy's reach, hanging cords on draperies and window blinds, small objects that puppy might swallow, a bowl of candy on the coffee table, etc. Keep puppy out of the garage — even a teaspoon of spilled anti-freeze can be deadly.

Make sure you can confine Fluffy when you cannot watch him. Use a crate or baby gates to keep him safe when you are busy.

 

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Hurry, do it!

It's easy to clean up after Fluffy if you teach him to use one particular spot as a toilet. From the time he's a pup, take him outside to that spot and tell him to "Hurry, do it." Put him on a leash so he can't wander, and don't play with him until he's done.

When he performs, praise him and give him a special treat. If you are using a clicker or squeaker for training, click or squeak before you give the treat. Very shortly, Fluffy will get the idea.

When you clean up, use a disposable mitt, a plastic bag, a shovel, or a pooper scooper. Dump the feces in the garbage can for disposal on trash day in your neighborhood.

 

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Puppy-proof your bedroom

If Fluffy's going to play and sleep in your bedroom, make sure you protect your possessions as well as Fluffy. Don't leave books or other valuables in puppy's reach. Puppies must chew in order to ease the discomfort of teething, to explore their world, and to satisfy an instinct to gnaw on things. If you keep things out of Fluffy's reach, you won't be frustrated that he has chewed a library book or your prized stuffed toy.

Put your dirty clothes in the hamper. Puppies and dogs love to chew their owner's dirty clothes, especially socks and underwear.

Don't allow tug-of-war with blankets and bedspreads; puppies love to grab anything and pull and can quickly destroy bed linen by doing so.

If you eat snacks in your room, be sure to clean up the crumbs. Puppies quickly become scavengers once they find a regular source of food, which can lead to unacceptable begging, obesity, and intestinal upset.

 

 

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In sickness as in health

Even if you use good health and safety practices with your pet, you will likely outlive him. When a pet dies, it is a very sad time in your life. When a pet comes into your life as a puppy and lives as part of your family and then has a critical accident, becomes very ill, or dies of old age, it is hard to understand and deal with the sadness you feel.

When death occurs to a beloved pet, you have a right to mourn. If you have questions about what happened to your pet, talk to your veterinarian. How you handle the death of a pet is a very personal thing. Just remember, it's all right to feel very sad.

When your pet shows signs of age, consider getting another puppy. New puppies help revitalize older dogs and give them a bit more time with you. They also help the family to accept the aging or illness of the older dog.

Don't think that your pet would not want you to have another dog. If you select that next puppy carefully, he'll enrich your lives for another dozen years or more.

 

 

 

 

 

Dog Crates

The crate: a modern dog den

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"Canis familiaris," the domestic dog, is descended from "Canis lupus," the wolf. Many thousands of years ago, wolves hung around caves, stealing morsels from man at the dawn of civilization. Submissive wolves may have left their canine pack to take up residence at the periphery of human camps. In return for watchdog duty, these beasts probably received food, shelter, and companionship in the human pack. Genetic variability and mutations in wolves produced domestic dogs of an amazing variety of sizes, shapes, and colors, dogs that were further refined into breeds created for specific purposes. Although the terrier puppy has never seen the great north woods and the Samoyed down the street never hunted a moose with a silent pack of wolves, they have wolf habits in common with all other breeds of dogs. All puppies, in the manner of wolves, need a den. Pianos and tables make great dens, but furniture doesn't have sides for confinement. Laundry rooms, spare bathrooms, and even playpens are too big for a puppy den; there's enough room in these enclosures for the pup to defecate or urinate in one area and still have room to play or sleep without stepping in the mess.

In the wolf den, the mother wolf cleans up the cubs feces until the youngsters are old enough to defecate away from the den. The cubs learn that the den is a place to keep clean as well as a place of safety and comfort.

A modern den can be a Fiberglas or wire crate that can be kept in any room in the house. It should be barely large enough for the pup to lie down comfortably. If your pup is one of the large breeds and you don't want to buy several crates as he grows, buy an adult-size crate and partition it so it fits his current size.

The crate is a multi-purpose piece of dog paraphernelia. It can be used for:

Housetraining

Simply take the pup outside after each nap or meal. Do not play with him until he has done his business. If he hasn't relieved himself in about 10 minutes, take him back inside and put him in the crate. Repeat the routine in 10-15 minutes. Remember, no play until the pup does hid business and lots of praise when he gets the idea.

Protection from excited toddlers.

Children need to learn that the pup needs some quiet time. A blanket over a wire crate will help a child understand that it's time for Ranger to rest.

Playpen for puppies when you're not home.

If you need to take the kids to school or go to the grocery store, the pup that's crated will not chew the furniture or wet the carpet while you're gone. If he has already wet the carpet or chewed the furnitue, you can put him in the crate and issue a stern warning that there'll be no more of that going on.

Sanctuary for the over-excited pup.

Don't let Rambo run amok through the house, terrorizing the cat, the kids, and the furniture, and don't feel guilty about restricting his freedom. Sending the pup to his crate is somewhat akin to sending a child to his room: he feels comfortable there and he knows you are angry, and you have a chance to recover from his outburst.

After the pup is housebroken, leave the crate open during the day. You'll find that the pup will nap in the crate by choice. You can continue to put the pup in the crate when you'll be away from the house as long as you don't leave puppies and young dogs confined too long and make sure they have plenty of exercise when you are home. People often cringe at the thought of putting their beloved Star in a box or cage. They think confinement is cruel. After all, people don't want to be enclosed in a space they can barely turn around in. But puppies aren't people. Their wolf ancestors found comfort, safety, and shelter in their dens, and modern dogs find solace and satisfaction in their own space as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Everyone says I should get a crate for my dog. Why? I don't want to put my dog in a cage!

If dog crates were designed to look like little dog houses, it might be easier to convince people that they're -- not -- cages! First, let's talk about what a crate really is and how they can improve your relationship with your dog.

Long ago, when dogs were still wild animals, they often slept in dens - shallow holes they dug in the ground hidden away in places where they felt safe from predators. These were small, dark places, just big enough to turn around in and to lie down comfortably.

Even after centuries of selective breeding and living in people's homes, dogs still retain some of their ancient instincts. One of these instincts is the desire to have a den - a small, cozy place of their very own where they can feel safe and secure.

A "crate" is just a modern version of a den. In other words, it's a dog house within your house. Just as you enjoy having your own room where you can go for peace and privacy, your dog likes having his own room, too!

As well as giving him a safe, cozy place to stay, crates can make training your dog a lot easier. Housebreaking goes much faster when you use a crate and destructive chewing becomes easier to control. Traveling is safer for both you and your dog when he's in a crate. As you may have unhappily discovered, it's very hard nowadays to find a motel that allows pets. Many motels, though, allow -crated- dogs. Finding a rental apartment that will allow pets is becoming next to impossible but many landlords can be persuaded to accept tenants with crate-trained dogs.

 

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Where can I find a crate?

The most likely place to buy a crate is at your local pet supply store. You can find them at hardware and department stores, too. For the largest selection and sometimes, the best value, a wholesale pet supply company may be your best bet. You can find these companies through ads in popular dog magazines. It pays to shop around. Crates come in several styles and materials and some are sturdier or more convenient than others.

 

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What kind should I get?

The most popular crates are made of plastic or heavy welded steel wire. Plastic crates are molded two-piece units with ventilation areas along the sides and a welded steel wire door in front. They're lightweight, portable and are easily taken apart for storage or travel. Some of them come in decorator colors! Most plastic crates meet federal regulations for airline travel. The quality of plastic crates varies between manufacturers and you'll need to get one sturdy enough to resist chewing.

Wire crates are very popular and depending on your dog's needs, may be a better purchase than plastic. You'll need to shop more carefully for a wire crate because quality and style vary greatly. Some of them are flimsy and not meant to be collapsed for storage. Others, advertised as "collapsible", do so only with great difficulty and don't fold down to a convenient size. Look for sturdy crates with heavy gauge wire that are easily folded down into a "suitcase-style" shape for transportation and storage. Although they aren't approved for airline use, I prefer wire crates for my heavy-coated Chows because they offer better ventilation.

 

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How big should it be?

A crate need only be big enough for the dog to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably. I like them to be just long enough for my dogs to stretch out on their sides to sleep. Growing puppies can be a problem when buying a crate. Not everyone can afford to buy a new one for each stage of growth but too large a crate can make a puppy harder to housebreak. Fortunately, dividers are available for some brands so you can shrink and expand the puppy's space as needed.

 

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How much will it cost?

You can expect to pay between - 125 for a quality crate for a medium to large dog. While it may sound like a lot, a good crate will outlive several dogs and quickly pays for itself in peace of mind and undamaged carpets, furniture and belongings.

 

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How does a crate make housebreaking easier?

Along with their natural instinct to sleep in a den, puppies are born with the instinctive desire to keep their dens clean. Given the opportunity, most puppies will seek out an area to relieve themselves that's far away from where they eat, play and sleep. Using a crate takes advantage of this natural tendency and helps the puppy to learn to control himself in between trips outside.

During the first few months, puppies require almost constant supervision, something that's hard to do with our busy lifestyles. Using a crate helps you to prevent accidents when you can't watch your puppy every single minute. Housebreaking is easier to accomplish when accidents are prevented in the first place, rather than correcting the puppy afterward. Using a crate, a place that the puppy is naturally reluctant to use as a bathroom, combined with a regular feeding and exercise schedule will make housebreaking go faster as well as saving your carpets and your sanity!

 

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My dog chews up everything in sight when I'm not home! How will a crate help that?

Just as you crate an unhousebroken puppy to prevent accidents when he can't be supervised, the same applies to a dog that chews or gets into mischief when you can't be there to watch him. Confined to a crate, a destructive dog is limited to chewing only on the toys you give him, not your cushions or woodwork!

 

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How do I get my puppy used to a crate? I've tried putting him in it but he cries so much, I let him out after a few minutes. He doesn't like it and I feel sorry for him.

If small children and puppies could have their way, they'd choose to run free all the time without any restrictions. Unfortunately, because they don't have the maturity to handle that freedom and keep themselves out of trouble, they have to learn to accept periods of confinement. The key word is "accept" - it doesn't mean they'll like it right away. Most dogs bark and complain during the first few days. Once they begin to accept this new restriction on their freedom, they quiet down and learn to enjoy it.

Growing puppies alternate periods of activity and rest throughout the day. There's no reason they can't do their resting in a crate, like a baby taking a nap in a playpen or crib. By keeping the puppy on a regular schedule of feedings and exercise, you can control his natural rest periods. If you put the puppy in his crate when he's already tired and ready to settle down, he'll get used to his new "bedroom" faster.

In the beginning, he should only be expected to stay in the crate for 2 hours at a time and overnight. During his periods out of the crate, your puppy needs plenty of playtime and attention. I like to give puppies at least an hour between crating periods where they're played with, loved, allowed to explore and romp. This burns off their boundless puppy energy and helps them understand that crating is only a temporary thing.

Special toys and treats help make his "room" a pleasant place to stay. Give the puppy a small treat every time he has to go into his crate. Better still, toss the treat into the crate so he can jump in after it. (If you want him to learn to go in the crate on command, say "Kennel" when you toss the treat. He won't understand right away but before long he'll put three important things together in his mind - "Kennel" + Crate = Treat!)

You've given him a reward for going into the crate, now you need to give him an incentive to stay in there quietly. Make his "room" comfortable. Get him a soft but hard to destroy blanket or bed. Get him a selection of toys but don't give them all to him at once, just one or two at a time. Rotate the toys. Puppies get bored easily and switching the toys around makes them seem new and exciting. Teething puppies love chew toys and all dogs love a sterilized beef bone with peanut butter stuffed in the middle. They can spend hours trying to clean it all out.

Dogs learn quickly when their behavior is associated with a reward. Behavior that doesn't result in a reward often disappears when there's nothing in it for them. It's normal for many puppies to bark, whine, howl or throw tantrums when first being crate-trained. If you let your puppy out of the crate while he's upset, you'll be rewarding him for bad behavior. The next time he's supposed to go in his crate, he'll cry and bark again because that's what got him out the last time.

For many puppies, just ignoring their complaints is enough to make them stop. If it doesn't get them anywhere, they soon give it up and find something better to do like sleep or play with a toy. Stubborn puppies might need a harsh-sounding "No!" and a rap on the top of the crate to help them get over their tantrums. Whatever you do, don't take him out of the crate until he's quieted down.

 

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I've got an adult dog that's never been in a crate before. Is it too late to train her?

No, it's never too late! Older dogs can often learn faster than puppies. At first let her smell and investigate the crate with the door open. Feed her meals in it and have her jump in and out of it for treats. Just as you would with a puppy, you should make the crate a comfortable place to be and keep crating periods short in the beginning. Once accustomed to them, many dogs enjoy spending time in the crates even when they don't have to. Crates are a favorite place to retreat with a new toy or get some relief from a rambunctious puppy or child. There are several crates around my house and at any given time, you can find dogs napping in them, the doors standing wide open. They even argue about who gets to use certain crates. Would they react this way to something they thought of as a cage? Not hardly!

 

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Some people say that using a crate for discipline makes the dog afraid of the crate, but others recommend the crate for this purpose. Who is right?

A crate or dog cage can be a wonderful training tool when used correctly. Used incorrectly, or over used, it can be an instrument of fear and torture. Every dog, especially new puppies, should have a crate. Dogs are descended from wild canines that used dens for shelter. Most wild canines dig the den, a small, cozy, and safe haven to sleep and rear puppies. In our homes, domesticated dogs appreciate such a haven or den that should become the dog’s ‘room,’ a refuge where the dog can rest and feel safe.

A crate is probably one’s best tool when it comes to the discipline of housetraining. The "discipline" aspect comes from a dog’s innate urges not to urinate or defecate in its den or bed. Even young puppies prefer to move as far away from their sleeping quarters as possible to relieve themselves. Usually, a puppy or dog who has an elimination accident in his crate was sick or couldn’t wait any longer.

Crating a puppy or dog over night, or when the family is away during the day, also administers a passive form of discipline by preventing an energetic, curious dog from chewing up human belongings or electric cords. A crate keeps the dog safe, and out of trouble and is handy at times when it is necessary to have repairmen in or during holidays when the house is full of company.

Bad crate discipline occurs when the crate is over used, or misused. Yes, a crate does get the dog out of the way occasionally, but some people misuse it to get the dog out of the way, most of the time. One study about dog surrenders to shelters found that dogs crated for long periods were more at risk for surrender because people used the crate to put the dog "out of sight, out of mind." Crating a dog for eight hours overnight or while you are at work is not cruel, especially if the dog is taken for a long walk or jog prior to crating. People who continuously crate a dog for longer periods should question why they wanted a dog in the first place.

It is common to punish a human child by sending him to his room. Dogs are not children in fur coats, and this method is futile in teaching Fido a lesson. An all too common scenario is:

Fido chews up a shoe (messes in the house, digs a hole, or commits some other serious transgression).

Owner yells "no," grabs the dog, and puts him in his crate.

Let’s analyze this from Fido’s point of view. Whether caught in the act or punished minutes or hours later, Fido was probably not aware that the act he was committing was that horrible in human terms. He understands only that his owners are upset and that he came when he was called only to be punished for something he didn’t even know was bad.

When disciplining a dog for committing bad behavior, it is important to catch him in the act of doing the deed. Dogs live in the moment and do not associate something they did five minutes or a half hour ago with the present. Often, an owner finds the mess and punishes the dog, not knowing whether the ‘sin’ was committed five minutes, a half hour, or longer ago. All the dog associates with being called over, punished, then shoved in a crate is that, "I came, I got punished for it, and I certainly won’t make the mistake of coming when called again." He also learns that the crate is a negative, scary place.

Used for the discipline of keeping the dog safe until trustworthy, and housebreaking, a crate is a wonderful training tool. Used inappropriately, it can cause distress and hamper training progress. Used correctly, it may look like a crate to you, but to a dog, it’s his private room.

 

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Some hints for crate use:

When telling the dog to go into his crate, use a command such as "kennel."

To get the dog accustomed to staying in the crate, give him meals or treats in the crate with the door open.

Put some washable bedding and a toy in the crate for comfort.

When using the crate for discipline or to interrupt unacceptable behavior patterns, limit the incarceration to 10-15 minutes.

If the pup or dog soils the crate, don’t scold. Instead, make arrangements so he’s not left alone for such long periods.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A housetraining checklist

Help with housetraining

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In the old days, dog owners "housebroke" their dogs, pushed their noses in mistakes, and screamed in rage when the pooch made a mistake on the rug again. Today we're more enlightened. Here are some hints for house training your dog:

First, buy a puppy from a breeder who has already started housetraining by putting the puppies outside every morning and after meals and praising when they relieve themselves. It's also helpful if the breeder has done some crate training as well. Puppies raised in wire cages in commercial kennels and shipped to pet stores have nowhere to relieve themselves except their living quarters, a habit that is difficult to overcome.

Buy a crate and a baby gate or two to keep the puppy confined when you cannot watch him. If the puppy is kept in the kitchen, he can't pee on the rug in the living room, a simple fact that escapes many pet owners caught in the midst of a housetraining debacle.

Feed a dry food, preferably the brand used by the breeder. If that food is unavailable, get about 10 pounds from the breeder and gradually switch to a locally-available brand. Begin with a mix of about three-quarters of the original food and gradually increase the volume of the new food until the pup is eating only the new food. Avoid canned food during housetraining. The high water content puts extra pressure on the bladder and the color enhancer sodium nitrite can act as a diuretic, increasing the frequency of urination. Iron oxide, another color enhancer in canned foods, can stain the carpet if the pup has an accident.

Confine the puppy to rooms with tile or other washable flooring so mistakes don't ruin carpets.

Feed on a schedule and take the puppy outside to the appropriate relief spot immediately after eating.

Don't play with the pup until he relieves himself..

If he doesn't urinate and defecate within 10 minutes, bring him inside and place him in his crate for 10-15 minutes, then try again. Continue this routine until he is successful, and then praise him as if he just won a blue ribbon.

Take him out on a leash to his bathroom spot so he learns to relieve himself under your control.

Puppies do not soil the house out of spite or stupidness; they soil the house because they have not been taught to do otherwise. If the puppy does urinate or defecate inside, he should immediately be taken outside to the appropriate spot. (Keep a leash near each door to the house for easy access just in case.)

Keep the bathroom spot clean by picking up feces every day. Cleanliness prevents worms and spread of intestinal viruses and infections and cuts down on smell that might bother the neighbors.

Realize that a puppy should have a schedule, that he should be taken to his outside relief spot last thing at night and first thing in the morning as well as after meals and naps, and that he should be praised when he does his duty. When taking the puppy to his outdoor spot, don't play with him or allow the children to do so. First things first. If the pup does not relieve himself, put him in the crate for a few minutes, then try again. Most puppies will not soil in their crates if they can possibly help it.

Failures in housetraining are human mistakes, not puppy errors. The puppy does not understand that carpets are for walking, not bowel relief. If eight-year-old Steve is told to take Sam outside after the pup finishes his dinner and Steve is busy watching television and says "in a minute" or ignores the request altogether, and if Sam then dumps on the floor, it is not the puppy's fault. It is also not the child's fault. Mom or Dad tried a shortcut by making the child responsible for the dog's behavior and that never works.

Never punish for mistakes. Once you're fairly confident that the puppy understands where to relieve himself, scold him for mistakes, but don't spank, scream, or push his nose in the mess. The spot should be cleaned up, preferably with an enzyme odor eliminator. (If the odor is left untended, the dog will find it again, even if people cannot detect any smell.)

If you don't have the time or patience for the task of housetraining, buy, rescue or adopt a dog from a shelter that is already housetrained. Most puppies learn fairly quickly (especially when compared to children who can take two years or more to graduate from diapers to underwear) to whine or scratch at the door when they need to go out. Easy-to-train pups can be reliable in the house at around four months of age; difficult pups may take a month or two longer.

If a puppy reaches four or five months of age and is still having regular accidents in the house, make sure he does not have a bladder infection, intestinal parasites, or other medical reason for his failure to signal that he needs to go outside. Then redouble the efforts to teach him what you want him to know.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A guide to "happy housetraining"

Preventing "accidents" instead of waiting for accidents to happen.

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Introduction

Housetraining baby puppies

Puppy's first night home

Daytime schedule

Housetraining older dogs

What to do if the puppy has an accident

Cleaning up accidents

Advice for owners of male dogs

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Introduction

This method of housetraining is focused on preventing "accidents" instead of waiting for accidents to happen. The goal is to make it easy for the puppy to do the right thing in the first place. Training in this way is faster and more effective than punishing the dog for mistakes. YOU play the most important part in the success or failure of this method — you must be patient, determined and reliable for it to work. If you already own an adult dog with housetraining problems, you can use this method to start fresh just as you would with a puppy.

This method also requires the use of a dog crate or at least, a small, confined area for the pup to stay in when he can't be supervised. A crate isn't cruel! It's your dog's own private room where he can rest and stay safe, secure and out of trouble. Just like a small child, your puppy needs to be protected from hurting himself and destroying your furniture. A crate will make the job so much easier!

The first few weeks of owning a puppy are some of the hardest and most important. Spending extra time and effort now will pay off in a big way. Don't blame the puppy if you're lazy!

Before you start, here are some essential housetraining facts:

Adult dogs can be housebroken in the same way as puppies.

Puppies have limited bladder control.

Dogs & puppies like to be clean and to sleep in a clean area.

All dogs do best when kept to a routine schedule.

Dogs have to go poddy when...

they wake up in the morning or after a nap

within 1/2 hour after eating

before they go to sleep

If a dog and especially a puppy is not allowed to relieve itself at those times, it will most likely have an accident. Don't wait for the dog to "tell" you that it has to go out. Just assume that he does and put him outside.

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Housetraining baby puppies

Baby puppies, under three months of age, have limited bladder control and reflexes. They usually don't know they're going to "go" until the moment they do! It's not realistic to expect them to tell you ahead of time. If you're observant, you'll see that a puppy who's looking for a place to go poddy will suddenly circle about while sniffing the floor. The sniffing is instinct — he's looking for a place that's already been used. If he can't find one, he'll start one! By preventing accidents in the house, you'll teach him that the only appropriate bathroom is the one outside!

Ideally, you're reading this before you've brought your new puppy home. If you already have your puppy, just pick up the schedule at an appropriate place.

Set up a dog crate or small, confined area (the smaller the better.) Using a dog crate will be more effective. The size of the crate is important — if it's too large, the puppy will have room to use one end as a bathroom. If you've bought a crate for him to "grow into," you can also get dividers to reduce the inner space while he's small. If he must be left alone while you're at work, then a larger crate is okay. Put a stack of newspapers at one end for him to use when you can't be home to let him out.

Also in the crate should be a water dish (you can get one that attaches to the side of the crate and is harder to spill), sleeping pad and toys. Put the crate where he isn't shut away from the family. If you're using a confined area instead, a baby gate across the doorway is preferable to closing the door and isolating your puppy.

Your puppy might not like the crate at first. Don't give in to his complaining or tantrums! If you're sure he isn't hungry or has to go poddy, ignore his yowling. If he gets really obnoxious, reach inside the crate, give him a little shake by the scruff of his neck and say NO in a deep, stern voice. Eventually he'll settle down and sleep which is what crates are for! If you give a tempting treat every time you put the dog in his crate, he'll soon look forward to going in.

The crate is intended to be his sleeping and feeding place and is where he should be when you can't keep a close eye on him. If you give him the run of the house at this age, you can expect accidents! Dogs instinctively keep their sleeping areas clean. If you've allowed him to go poddy when he needs to, he won't dirty his crate if he can help it. Once he's developed better control, he won't need the newspapers unless you're going to be gone all day. Change the papers several times a day if they've been soiled.

 

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Puppy's first night home

Get off on the right foot at the beginning! Carry the puppy from your car to the yard. Set him on the grass and let him stay there until he poddies. When he does, tell him how wonderful he is! After bringing the pup inside, you can play with him for an hour. Plan on taking the puppy outside every two hours (at least) while he's awake. Don't wait for him to tell you that he has to go!

Feed the puppy his supper in his crate. Don't let him out for half an hour and when you do, carry him outside to poddy before you do anything else. Wait for him to have a bowel movement before bringing him back in. Some pups get their jobs done quickly, others may take half an hour.

If he's being slow, walk around the yard encouraging him to follow you. Walking tends to get things moving, so to speak!

Always take the puppy outside first thing when you let him out of the crate and always CARRY the puppy to the door!! This is important. Puppies seem to have a reflex peeing action that takes affect the moment they step out of the crate onto your carpeting. If you let him walk to the door, he'll probably have an accident before he gets there. Part of this training method is psychological — you want the puppy to feel grass under his feet when he goes to the bathroom, not your carpeting!

After another short play period, take the pup outside before bedtime, then tuck him into his crate for the night. If he cries during the night, he probably has to go out. Carry him outside to poddy, then put him back in the crate with a minimum of cuddling. If you play with him, he might decide he doesn't want to go back to sleep! Puppies usually sleep through the night within a few days.

 

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Daytime schedule

Establish a regular schedule of poddy trips and feedings. This helps you to control the times he has to go out and prevent accidents in the house. First thing in the morning — before you have your coffee — carry the puppy outside. He can then come in and play for an hour. Feed breakfast in the crate and don't let him out again for a half hour. Then carry him back outside for poddy. Puppies usually have a bowel movement after each meal so give him time to accomplish it.

Now he can have another inside playtime for an hour or so. Don't give him free run of the house, use baby gates or close doors to keep him out of rooms he shouldn't go in. (Puppies are notorious for finding out of the way corners to have accidents in — keep him in an area where you can watch him). If you give him too much freedom too soon, he'll probably make a mistake. After playtime, take him outside again then tuck him into his crate for a nap.

For the first month or so, you'll be feeding three or four meals per day. Repeat the same procedure throughout the day: poddy outside first thing in the morning, one hour playtime, poddy, meal in crate, poddy, playtime, poddy, nap, poddy, playtime, meal, etc. The playtimes can be lengthened as the puppy gets older and is more reliable. Eventually the puppy will be letting you know when he needs to go out but remember — if you ignore his request or don't move quickly he'll have an accident!

I know this sounds like a lot of work and it is! The results of all this runnin' in and out will pay off in a well-housebroken puppy and clean carpets. Keep in mind that some breeds are easier to housetrain than others and how the puppy was raised before it came to you has an affect, too. Pet store puppies who were allowed to use wire-bottom crates have less inclination to keep their crates clean. Puppies that were raised in garages or other large areas where they could "go" wherever will also be a little more difficult. Don't give up though - you can train them, it will just take a little longer.

A word about paper-training: It seems harmless to leave papers about "just in case" and for us who work all day, it's a necessity. However, paper-training your pup will make the overall job of housetraining that much harder and take longer. By only allowing the pup to relieve itself outside, you're teaching it that it's not acceptable to use the house. Using newspapers will override this training. Also, be aware that many puppies get the notion that going poddy NEAR the papers is as good as going ON them! If you must use newspapers when you're gone, keep to the regular housetraining schedule when you're at home. Get the puppy outside often enough and don't leave papers out "just in case."

Keep your dog's yard picked up and free of old stools. Many dogs choose an area to use as a bathroom. If left to become filthy, they'll refuse to use it and do their business in the house instead! If your dog has to be tied up when he's outside, keeping the area clean is even more critical. If you could only move about in a small area, you wouldn't want to lie next to the toilet, would you? Picking up stools helps you keep tabs on your dog's health as well. Stools should be firm and fairly dry. Loose, sloppy stools can be an indication of worms, health problems, stress or digestive upset.

 

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Housetraining older dogs

You can use a modified puppy schedule to train an unhousetrained dog or one that's having housetraining problems. Start from the beginning just like a puppy, use a crate and put them on a schedule. An older dog can be expected to control itself for longer periods provided you take it outside at critical times — first thing in the morning, after meals and last thing at night. Until they're reliable, get them outside every three-to-four hours in between those times.

Adopted older dogs that have always had freedom may be unwilling to have a bowel movement when on a leash. You can either walk them longer or keep them confined until they really gotta go. Just like a puppy, don't give them the run of the house and keep them in a crate or small area if you can't supervise them. You can give them more freedom as they become more reliable.

 

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What to do if the puppy has an accident

Remember, this method of housetraining is based on PREVENTING accidents. By faithfully taking the dog out often enough, you'll get faster results than if you discipline the puppy after the accident has already happened. If you puppy makes a mistake because you didn't get him out when you should have — it's not his fault!

If you catch the pup in the act, stay calm. Holler NO while you scoop the puppy up immediately - don't wait for him to stop piddling - and carry him outside to an area he's used before. As you set him on the ground, tell him "THIS IS WHERE YOU GO PODDY!" and praise him as he finishes the job. Leave him out a few more minutes to make sure he's done before bringing him back in.

This is a little trickier with an adult dog especially if he's new to you and you don't know how he'll react to being grabbed and thrust outside. Holler NO and put a leash on to take him out and show him where the bathroom is. Make a point of getting the dog out more often in the future!

ANY other corrections such as rubbing his nose in it, smacking with newspapers, yelling, beating or slapping only confuse and scare the dog. If you come across an "old" accident, it really doesn't pay to get too excited about it. Dogs aren't smart enough to connect a past act with your present anger and he won't understand what you're so mad about. He'll act guilty but it's only because he knows you're mad at him. He has no real idea why. Point the spot out to him and say "WHAT IS THIS?" but that should be limit of your correction.

Keep in mind that health problems, changes in diet and emotional upsets (moving to a new home, adding a new pet or family member, etc.) can cause temporary lapses in housetraining. Diabetes in adult dogs and urinary tract infections in both puppies and adults can cause dogs to have to urinate more often. Urinary infections in young female puppies are common. A symptom is frequent squatting with little urine release. If you suspect a physical problem, please take your dog for an examination.

Sudden changes in dog food brands or overindulgence in treats or table scraps can cause diarrhea. Dogs don't need much variety in their diets so you're not harming yours by staying to one brand of food. If you make a change, do it gradually by mixing a little of the new food with the old, gradually increasing the amount of new food every day. A sudden change of water can cause digestive upset, too. If you're moving or traveling, take along a couple gallons of "home" water to mix with the new. Distilled water from the grocery store can also be used.

 

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Cleaning up accidents

If you've worked hard with this training method, you won't have many! Put your puppy (or adult dog) away out of sight while you clean up a puddle. Dog mothers clean up after their babies but you don't want your puppy to think that YOU do, too! Clean up on linoleum is self-explanatory. On carpeting, get lots of paper towel and continue blotting with fresh paper until you've lifted as much liquid as possible.

There are several home-made and commercially available "odor killers" that are helpful. In a pinch, plain white vinegar will work to help neutralize the odor and the ammonia in the urine. (Don't use a cleaner with ammonia - it'll make it worse!) Sprinkle baking soda on the spot to soak up moisture and to help neutralize odor, vacuum when dry. At the pet store, you can find a good selection of products that may be more effective. A diarrhea stain on carpeting or upholstery can be lifted with a gentle solution of lukewarm water, dishwashing soap and white vinegar.

Puppies are attracted to urine odors and their noses are much better than ours! Even when using a commercial odor killer, a teeny residue will be left behind that our dogs can smell. Keep an eye on that spot in the future! This remarkable scenting ability does have an advantage — if you must paper-train your dog and he doesn't know what newspapers are for yet, "house-breaking pads" are available at your pet store. They are treated with a mild attractive odor (too weak for us to smell), so your puppy will gladly use them!

 

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Advice for owners of male dogs

Your male puppy will begin to lift his leg between four and nine months of age, a sign of the activation of his sexual drive and instinct to "mark" territory. This is a perfect age to neuter your dog and avoid the unwanted behaviors that accompany sexual maturity — marking in inappropriate places, fighting and aggression toward other male dogs. Intact (un-neutered) males will mark any upright object and are especially hard on your shrubbery and trees. Some males will also mark inside the house, particularly if another dog comes to visit or if you're visiting in someone else's home. If you use your male for breeding, you can expect this behavior to get worse. Neutering your dog will protect his health, help him to live longer and be a better pet along with improving his house manners!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to socialize your puppy

Puppies need handling from day one

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Puppies go thorough a critical period of socialization between eight and 16 weeks of age. During this period of time they mature very rapidly. If isolated from external stimuli and not exposed to the outside world, they can grow up to be fearful adult dogs.

Litters of puppies raised in an isolated location such as a barn, a garage or an isolated dog kennel often have little exposure to humans except those feeding them. If puppies never leave their confined, isolated quarters where they have been raised, they may never experience any external stimuli such as automobiles, strangers, loud noises or children running and playing.

Poorly socialized puppies can also result when they have been raised in the wild by an abandoned, female dog. If these puppies are fortunate enough to be discovered by a human and receive handling while still very young, they have a better chance to trust humans and be less fearful. If they receive no human handling before they are 16 weeks of age, they may grow up to be very fearful adult dogs that are not acceptable family pets.

If puppies are not socialized at an early enough age, it makes little difference if they have been raised by a breeder, a private family or in a vacant building; the outcome will usually be the same. Puppies that receive little or no human handling between the ages of eight and 16 weeks of age often remain fearful when exposed to new situations. Meeting their new family for the first time, the car ride to their new home, their first trip to the vet, and meeting children, strangers or other dogs for the first time can be extremely frightening for these puppies.

We will never be able to affect puppies raised in the wild by an abandoned dog or by breeders who don't know how important it is to socialize their puppies. What we can do is not allow our emotions to override good, rational thinking when making a decision about which puppy will make the best family pet. If you feel sorry for and want to select the shy puppy that avoids eye contact and doesn't want to be picked up, you may be setting yourself up for future problems.

How can we make sure the puppy we purchase will be well-socialized and become a good fit for our family? When surveying a puppy or litter of puppies more than 16 weeks of age that have had little human handling and are very shy and fearful, realize that they may always remain somewhat shy and fearful. If handled with kindness, patience and love, some of these puppies may learn to trust their family members but still remain somewhat fearful of strangers. A puppy acquired at eight weeks of age is more likely to become a well-adjusted family pet than one adopted at 16 weeks of age.

Acquiring a puppy prior to eight weeks of age can also create problems. These puppies miss out on important interactions that take place with other puppies in the litter. A puppy selected too young may miss out on the consequences of biting a littermate too hard. This puppy's new owners will then pay the price when it bites them too hard while playing.

Eight weeks of age is the ideal time for a puppy to adjust to a new home.

How do we get our puppies socialized so they grow up to be well-adjusted, adult dogs that are comfortable meeting strangers, children and other dogs? The key is to make sure your puppy gets exposed to everything he may ever be exposed to during his lifetime, while he is very young. The critical age of socialization is between eight and 16 weeks of age. If not exposed to new situations during this critical period, your puppy may always be fearful when exposed to new things in the future.

After you have chosen your new puppy and had it examined by your veterinarian, you can begin to expose it to new things. Your puppy will not have had all his vaccinations yet, but you may still take him to a family or neighbor's home to expose him to children or friendly, vaccinated dogs. If you have small children, dogs or cats in your family, you are fortunate. Your puppy will become accustomed to the screaming and active play behavior of children and will be exposed to other pets.

If you are a single adult, a couple without children or a senior citizen, you will have to go out of your way to expose your puppy to children of all ages. You can invite well-mannered children into your home to have supervised play with your new puppy. If you don't know anyone with small children, you can often find families with children at local parks. Keep some tasty treats available for the children to give your puppy so he associates them with food rewards.

When you have visitors come to your home, when the mailman delivers mail or the deliveryman brings packages, do the same thing. Give them a dog treat, have them make your puppy sit, and then give the puppy the treat for sitting. This will teach the puppy if he sits for strangers he will be rewarded. This is an excellent way to prevent your puppy from jumping up on people. Your puppy will also learn that visitors will come bearing gifts, instead of being something to bark at and to protect the family from.

Enrolling your puppy in a puppy kindergarten or a puppy training class will have many benefits. This will be a way to take your puppy out of the house once a week where he will be exposed to many new situations during a critical period of socialization. Be sure to choose a puppy training class where the emphasis is on having fun and meeting new puppies and their owners. Instructors should use only a buckle-type collar and never a choker or pinch collar. Basic training using praise and food rewards for motivation will make you and your puppy enjoy going to class.

Choosing the correct puppy for you and your family that fits your particular life-style is critical. Exposing your new puppy to pleasant experiences such as strangers, children and other dogs between eight and 16 weeks of age, is critical to having a well-adjusted adult dog.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bringing Bowser home

Q: I'm bringing home a new puppy soon. Is there anything I need to do to get ready?

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A: Yes!A puppy means a big change in your life and it helps, as the Boy Scouts say, to be prepared. Taking time now to plan and get things in order will make a big difference in the long run.

Start out with the right atitude

What you'll need

Puppy-proof your home.

Use a schedule

Everybody needs their own place

Visit your vet

Ask questions!

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Start out with the right atitude

Start out with the right attitude. The first weeks of your new puppy's life with you will be busy and demanding. There may be times when you wonder if getting a puppy was such a good idea. Things will go better if you have patience and keep your sense of humor. Remember that puppyhood only happens once. The extra effort you put into it now will pay off in the future.

 

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What you'll need

Get the supplies and equipment you'll need. Here's a list:

Wire or plastic dog crate

Easily washable, hard-to-destroy bedding material, imitation sheepskin works well§ tip-proof, stainless steel or hard plastic food & water dishes.

Buckle puppy collar & lead; I like the soft braided nylon types.

ID Tag with your phone number to wear on the collar

a collection of high quality, safe chew toys: Puppy Nylabones, Cressite rubber balls or bones and sturdy stuffed squeak toys.

grooming supplies: ask your breeder for recommendations

a quality brand of dry puppy food.

"Bitter Apple", a safe spray-on product to discourage chewing on inappropriate objects.

a wire, wooden or plastic "baby gate" for blocking doorways.

a good book on puppy care & training . Read through them before bringing your puppy home.

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Puppy-proof your home.

Raising a puppy is a lot like raising small children -- they get into everything! Some of what they get into can be hazardous to their health or to your possessions. You can make life safer for the puppy and your furniture by getting rid of hazards and temptations ahead of time.

To a puppy, the world is brand new and fascinating! He's seeing it all for the very first time and absolutely everything must be thoroughly investigated. Puppies do most of their investigating with their mouths -- "Look at this! What is it? Something to eat? Something to play with?" Murphy's Law says that a puppy will be most attracted to the things he should least have -- electrical cords, the fringe on your expensive oriental rug, your brand new running shoes, etc.

Preventing destructive and dangerous chewing is easier than trying to correct the puppy every second. Look around your home. What objects could be put up out of the way of a curious puppy? Bitter Apple spray can be applied to furniture legs, woodwork and other immovable items. Are there rooms your puppy should be restricted from entering until he's better trained and more reliable? Install a baby gate or keep the doors to those rooms closed.

Take a walk around your yard looking for potential hazards. If your yard is fenced, check the boundaries and gates for openings that could be potential escape routes. Puppies can get through smaller places than an adult dog. If your yard's not fenced, make a resolution right now that your puppy will never be allowed to run off lead without close supervision. He won't ever know enough to look both ways before crossing the street to chase a squirrel. Keep him safe by keeping him on leash!

 

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Use a schedule

Work out a schedule for you and the puppy. Housetraining is much easier when the puppy's meals, exercise and playtimes are on a regular schedule throughout the day. Housebreaking is a whole subject in itself, one there isn't time for in today's short column. Your book on puppy care and training should have a section on housebreaking with suggestions and a recommended schedule. Read through it and create a game plan before the puppy arrives. Many people like to bring their puppies home on a weekend in order to devote extra time to settling in and housebreaking those first few days.

 

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Everybody needs their own place

Decide where to put the dog crate, and have it set up and ready for his arrival. Where to keep the crate will depend on what's most convenient for you as well as the puppy's response. Many puppies don't like to be isolated in one part of the house while their family is in another but some puppies won't settled down in their crates if there's too much activity going on around them. You might have to experiment with different locations until you learn what works best for both you and the puppy.

 

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Visit your vet

Make an appointment with your veterinarian to give the puppy a complete checkup within 72 hours of your purchase. If you don't have a vet yet, ask the breeder or local kennel club for a recommendation. Although the puppy has most likely been health-checked by the breeder (or should've been!), an exam is additional security against health defects, problems that weren't apparent the first time. If your vet offers microchip ID implants, this an excellent time to get one!

 

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Ask questions!

Use your puppy's breeder as a valuable resource for advice and information. Don't be afraid to ask questions. The breeder wants your relationship with your puppy to be successful and can offer many tips based on years of experience.

 

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The Chihuahua

A pint-sized canine with a macho streak

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Introduction

Breed history

Appearance

Temperament

Health

The Chihuahua as pet

Dangers

Finding a well-bred Chihuahua

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Introduction

With its big eyes, big ears, and bigger-than-life attitude, the Chihuahua is the epitome of cocky canine in a petite package.

In other words, this pint-sized pet is master of his universe and fears nothing, characteristics that make him a most suitable pet for some people and the worst possible choice for others. But a sudden spurt of popularity as the Taco Bell dog has brought notoriety, and demand for the tough and intelligent dogs has increased.

The Chihuahua has always been popular as a pet for elderly owners and apartment dwellers, so in an era when many breed registrations are declining, the number of Chihuahuas registered annually has increased from 29,860 in 1991 to 38,926 in 1997, an average increase of 1133 registered dogs per year and an overall increase of 30.4 percent. The number is hardly equivalent to the registrations of Labrador Retrievers, the breed with a lock on the number one slot for the past several years, but it has been enough to move the Chihuahua from 16th in popularity to 12th.

 

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Breed history

The Chihuahua takes its name from the Mexican state abutting west Texas and New Mexico, but likely came from the ancient Techichi dogs of the Toltecs crossed with hairless dogs from the Orient. Historians describe the Techichi as a heavy-boned small dog with a long coat indigenous to Central America and definitely connected to the Toltec civilization near present-day Mexico City. The Techichi was larger than the modern Chihuahua and was mute.

The Aztecs conquered the Toltecs and adopted the little dogs as sacred icons of the upper classes, used in religious ceremonies to expiate sins and as guides for the spirits of the dead. Somewhere along the way, breed historian K. deBlinde* concluded, the Techichi was crossed with an Oriental hairless breed that made its way to the New World via the Bering Strait land bridge and the smaller, smooth-coated, vocal Chihuahua of today was born.

The breed was discovered in Chihuahua State in the 1850s and quickly became popular. It was first registered with the American Kennel Club in 1904.

 

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Appearance

The Chihuahua is the smallest of the AKC registered breeds, weighing in at two-to-six pounds. No height is given in the standard, but most Chihuahuas are six-to-eight inches tall. As with many breeds, the body is slightly longer than it is tall.

The overall appearance is of a fine-boned but muscular dog. The head is distinctive with its rounded skull, large eyes, and large ears that perk upright when the dog is alert and flare out to the sides of the head when the dog is resting. The muzzle is moderately short and slightly pointed; teeth are arranged in a level or scissors bite.

The Chihuahua has a graceful neck carried with a slight arch and sloping gracefully into the shoulders. The topline is level, the ribs rounded and well-sprung, and the tail moderately long and carried up in a sickle shape or as a loop that touches the back.

Smooth-coated Chihuahuas have a soft, glossy, and close coat that is full over the body and scanty on the head and ears. The long-coated dogs have a longer soft coat that can be flat or slightly curly and must have an undercoat. The tail on a longcoat resembles a plume; the ears, feet, and legs are feathered; and the neck carries a ruff. Either coat can be any solid color or can be marked or splashed with color on a white background.

 

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Temperament

The official AKC standard for the breed describes the Chihuahua as "A graceful, alert, swift-moving little dog with saucy expression, compact, and with terrier-like qualities of temperament." However, some Chihuahuas carry "saucy" and "terrier-like" to extremes and are grumpy, haughty, or downright nasty when provoked – and provocation may come easy.

The tendency to be temperamental, a reputation for being suspicious of everyone but his owner, and a clannish dislike of any breed but his own makes the Chihuahua an unsuitable pet for households with small or boisterous children. On the other hand, he may be perfect for an elderly couple or individual, a pet owner who loves to pamper, those who live in apartments, and those on limited incomes.

Unfortunately, the Chihuahua’s innate curiosity, intelligence, and loyalty to and affection for his owner often get lost in the oft-repeated description of the more prominent features of his temperament, but in the right circumstances, he is a wonderful companion.

 

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Health

This is a long-lived breed, often achieving 16 or more years of age. However, there are some genetic diseases that can cause problems. Like most toy breeds, the Chihuahua is susceptible to slipped stifles (a knee injury caused by joint weakness) and fractures and may suffer from jawbone disorders, eye problems, heart disease, and tooth and gum complaints. The potential for some of these problems can be minimized by buying from a breeder who tests breeding stock for inheritable problems and by careful management. For example, Chihuahuas should not be allowed to jump off high furniture or out of your arms as the impact on landing could fracture a leg. Children should not be allowed to carry a Chihuahua or to play roughly with one for the same reason.

The Chihuahua is also born with a soft spot on the top of his head that may not fully close, so a blow here could kill him.

The Chihuahua tendency to shiver or tremble is not a health issue but takes place when the dog is excited or stressed. One explanation is the toy dogs have a higher metabolism and so dissipate body heat faster than larger dogs. Shivering helps to generate body heat – that’s why people shiver when we are cold. However, rapid dissipation of body heat is a distinct disadvantage in cool or cold climates, so Chihuahuas should always be protected when taken outdoors in these areas. Fortunately, there are dozens of styles of protective sweaters available.

 

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The Chihuahua as pet

The Chihuahua’s loyalty and affinity for being close to his master or mistress makes him an amiable companion, and his size makes him a convenient one. Chihuahuas have been known to ride about inside a pocket, in a purse or tote bag, or tucked firmly under the arm of their owners. They fit nicely in soft-sided pet carriers for an airplane ride or a jaunt in the car, and they enjoy outings immensely.

At home the Chihuahua is curious and mischievous. Left to his own devices, the little guy might decorate the entire house with a roll of toilet paper, make confetti out of the mail, or commandeer your bed or favorite chair as his own. Although he is not much bigger than a minute, he could also wind up as master of the household, for he can manipulate owners with great finesse.

Chihuahuas have a distinct liking for others of their own breed and an equally distinct dislike for dogs of other breeds. Therefore, if you want more than one dog, make the additional dogs Chihuahuas. And if you already have a dog of another breed, consider carefully before getting a Chihuahua.

 

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Dangers

Like other small dogs, the Chihuahua faces a danger outdoors that does not threaten his canine cousins that weigh more than 15 pounds – he is just the right size for a meal for a bird of prey or a coyote. Large hawks, eagles, and owls have been known to swoop down on pets and carry them away, and coyotes are becoming a common danger in some city fringes and suburbs.

The indomitable spirit of the Chihuahua also causes problems when the little dog spars with a large breed dog, especially one with a dominant personality or a high prey drive. It is best to always keep a Chihuahua on a leash or carried in arms so it cannot challenge a big dog to a duel it will surely lose.

 

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Finding a well-bred Chihuahua

The Taco Bell dog has made it easier to find poorly-bred Chihuahuas to meet the demand of those folks who do not carefully select a breed to fit their family. That obviously self-confident and trainable little guy has lulled many families with children into thinking the breed is perfect for them, and they trot down to the nearest pet store or let their fingers do the walking through the newspaper ads or on the Internet. However, puppies purchased from these sources may be bred for profit without concern for health or temperament and the breeders and dealers may know next to nothing that will help a family choose wisely or cope with the breed temperament or needs once they get the puppy home.

Responsible breeders are adamant about finding good homes for their puppies. Most responsible Chihuahua breeders – indeed most breeders of toy dogs – rarely place a puppy in a home with children under the age of 12. But like most other toy breeds, Chihuahuas have small litters – often only one or two puppies – so the number of puppies available from responsible breeders (those who check parent dogs for genetic abnormalities, back their puppies with warranties, support puppy buyers with advice and assistance, and breed only dogs of good temperament) are often scarce. So, in spite of the appeal of the Taco Bell dog, families should carefully consider if the breed is right for them and should seek out a sturdier dog of more moderate temperament if they have young children.

 

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Spay or neuter surgery

Spay or neuter surgery: A prescription for better canine health

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Introduction

Surgery costs: are they too high?

Responsibility

Questions you may want to ask your vet

Responsibility

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Introduction

Spay and neuter surgery to sterilize dogs and cats has been hailed as an expedient method of pet population control. The idea, obviously, is that sterilized pets can’t breed and produce puppies that end up in animal shelters to be adopted or euthanized. Many shelters and virtually all rescue groups sterilize dogs before making them available to buyers, and many shelters that do not do the surgery before the animals leave do require that the new owner do so.

Some advocacy groups have gone so far as to demand laws that require spay and neuter of all dogs and cats unless people buy permission to keep their animals intact. Others seek to require shelters to spay and neuter all animals that leave their premises to avoid unwanted litters in the future.

Many pet owners consider a spay and neuter requirement to be an infringement of their rights.

Many think that sterilization is cruel; they project their own feelings about loss of reproductive capacity on their pets. Many men have a difficult time dealing with neutering of their male pets.

And many pet owners and welfare advocates say that the cost of surgery keeps many families from having it done.

There are many myths about canine reproductive needs. Chiefly among these are the suspicion that neutering turns a male into a sissy and spaying causes a female to get fat and to lament her lost capacity.

The truth is that male dogs are usually better pets if they are neutered. They have less desire to roam, to mark territory (including furniture), or to exert dominance over family members. They are also healthier pets: no testicles means no testicular cancer, which is not uncommon among aging intact male dogs.

Females also tend to be better pets if they do not experience oestrus every six-to-nine months. Heat cycles bring hormonal changes that can lead to personality changes. Repeated heat cycles subject the reproductive system to uterine and mammary cancers and uterine infections. Some bitches experience false pregnancies that can be a bother to deal with and uterine infections that can be fatal.

Dogs and bitches do not get fat simply as a result of sterilization surgery. Like other mammals, they gain weight if they eat too much and exercise too little or are genetically programmed to be hefty. Weight gain that seems to follow spay or neuter surgery is most likely a result of continuing to feed a high energy diet to a dog that is reducing his need for energy as he reaches his adult size. Excess energy in the food becomes excess fat on the body.

As far as we know, dogs do not lament their lost capability to reproduce. This is a different species than ours; they reproduce to ensure survival of their kind, not to nurture a pup for 18 years, watch it go off to college, marry, establish a career, and produce grandchildren. Bitches nurse their pups for a few weeks, teach them to behave like dogs, and go on. Males know nothing of fatherhood; they do not recognize pups as their own.

 

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Surgery costs: are they too high?

Many animal population control proponents say that veterinarians should reduce the cost of spay-neuter surgery or should offer it for free so that dog owners will sterilize their pets.

In the attempt to increase the numbers of dogs that are sterilized, some folks on all sides have cultivated the perception that an ovariohysterectomy (removal of the ovaries and uterus) is quick and easy surgery that can be done on an assembly line, especially since a surgical protocol of puppies has been perfected. In recent years, some national organizations and local shelters have held marathon sterilization clinics, often at low cost, and issued press releases about the number of pets that underwent the surgery in a 24- or 48-hour period. Actually, however, most veterinarians consider the surgery to be major: although it can be quick and easy on young bitches, it can be difficult and time-consuming on bitches that have had several heats or have been bred.

The spay protocol should include a pre-surgical exam followed by injections of a muscle-relaxer such as Rompun and a short- acting barbiturate to allow insertion of a tube into the dog’s airway for air and anesthesia. When the dog is incapacitated by the barbiturate, a clamp is used to hold the mouth open and the tube is installed. The dog may be initially anesthetized with one gas and switched to another (such as isofluorine) for the surgery.

Preparation of the surgical area is done by a technician while the veterinarian dresses and scrubs for the surgery. The technician shaves the surgical site, expresses urine from the dog’s bladder, and uses betadine scrub to clean and rinse the site. The veterinarian uses a sterile scrub pack and scrubs his hands and arms just as a surgeon does before an operation.

The anesthetized dog is placed on her back on the operating table or in a tray that is placed on the table. The tray keeps the dog from sliding and gives the doctor clearer access to the abdomen. The needle used to inject the barbiturate is left in the vein in case more drug is needed.

The anesthesia is switched to isofluorine, which can be increased or decreased if necessary to lighten or deepen the dog’s anesthetized state. Injectable anesthesias can be stopped but cannot be reversed; if the dog gets in trouble on the operating table with an injectable anesthesia, she can die.

The dog is hooked to a heart monitor. The sterile surgical pack of instruments is placed within the doctor’s reach.Then the surgery can begin.

The surgery starts when the veterinarian clamps the skin to stretch it taut and begins the incision with a scalpel. The incision must be done carefully to minimize muscle damage.

The dog’s uterus is a Y-shaped organ with two horns and a body. The uterine body and horns and the ovaries and the tubes connecting the ovaries to the horns are removed in a complete ovariohysterectomy. The doctor uses disolvable sutures for the cuts at the ovaries and the cervix, checks for any abnormalities, bleeders, etc., and closes the incision with layers of stitches.

Time elapsed from start of surgery to the last stitch that closes the incision is about 25 minutes on bitches that have never come into oestrus. Bitches that have had one or more seasons or one or more litters and bitches that carry a lot of abdominal fat can take much longer. Add to this the time for pre-surgical exam and preparation, post-surgical observation, a post-surgical exam if necessary, and removal of stitches, and the cost to safely spay a beloved pet to prevent unwanted litters, reproductive cancers, and uterine infections is a bargain.

Many veterinarians charge more for spays on mature bitches, for the surgery takes longer. Many charge by the weight of the bitch, for more anesthesia is needed to keep a 90-pound bitch safely asleep than is needed for a 25-pound bitch. Generally, a spay surgery for a bitch that weighs less than 100 pounds is less than .

 

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Questions you may want to ask your vet

Those pet owners who consider using a clinic that charges or or thereabouts for spays should ask some questions before making an appointment for Fluffy.

Does the clinic use a reversible gas anesthesia? It’s more expensive, but it’s safer.

Are the instruments sterilized after every use? It’s more expensive and time-consuming, but it’s safer.

Does the veterinarian scrub between surgeries? It takes longer, but it’s safer.

Is the dog hooked to a heart monitor? It costs more, but it’s safer.

Is the incision closed with layers of sutures? It takes longer, but it’s safer.

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Responsibility

Pet owners who decide not to spay their bitches and neuter their dogs certainly have the right to make that decision. However, they bear a responsibility to prevent their intact pets from adding to the population of pets that wind up in animal shelters. So, if there is a pregnancy, owners must be prepared to

Provide the best nutrition and vet care for the bitch,

Remain with the bitch during the births to clean and dry the puppies,

Deal with a problem pregnancy or delivery,

Keep the puppies warm and the whelping area clean,

Keep the puppies for at least eight weeks,

Provide basic health care and socialization before the pups go to their new homes,

Provide training and behavior information to puppy buyers, and

Take back or help place any puppy that doesn’t work in its original home.

Obviously, unless a pet owner is also a dedicated hobby breeder, it’s cheaper, healthier, and far more practical to spay the bitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vaccination: Shield against canine diseases

Vaccination questions and answers

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Introduction

How does a vaccination work?

Don't dogs get sick from a vaccination?

What about vaccine reactions?

Which is better, killed virus vaccines or modified-live types?

Can you overload a puppy with too many things at once?

It sounds like vaccinations are dangerous. Is it worth the risk?

Shouldn't vaccines contain the most things possible?

My dog was vaccinated against (parvo, kennel cough, etc) and got it anyway. Why?

How many shots does a dog or puppy need?

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Introduction

Immunizing dogs against disease seems to be a simple process; pet owners may even take vaccinations for granted. It is both the most routine procedure performed in veterinary clinics and also the one most prone to confusion and misconception. This article attempts to answer some common questions dog owners have about vaccinations.

 

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How does a vaccination work?

In simplest terms, a vaccination stimulates the dog's immune system to protect itself against disease. When the antigen or infectious agent enters the dog's body, it is recognized as foreign and antibodies are produced to bind to it and destroy it. Even though the invader is gone, the cells that manufactured the antibodies "remember" it and will respond more quickly the next time the same agent is confronted.

 

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Don't dogs get sick from a vaccination?

When vaccines were first being investigated, patients were actually given a less severe form of the disease or a related disease, with the idea that it was better to be a little bit sick now rather than a lot sicker later. Giving people cowpox to prevent smallpox was an early form of vaccination. Todays vaccines are attenuated (weakened), killed, or only pieces of the virus and don't actually transmit the disease.

 

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What about vaccine reactions?

It is true that some animals have a systemic reaction, including a low-grade fever or muscle aches and pain. This reaction is more common in young and toy breed dogs and causes them to eat less and sleep more for 24-48 hours. Rarely, dogs will have a more severe reaction, characterized by hives, swelling of the face, or even vomiting. This reaction is easily prevented by giving antihistamine at the time of subsequent vaccinations. Leptospirosis, the component most likely to produce such strong reactions, can be left out of some vaccines. If your dog has had a vaccine reaction in the past, don't skip future vaccinations but do warn the veterinarian so he can take steps to prevent a recurrence.

 

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Which is better, killed virus vaccines or modified-live types?

Each type of vaccine has strengths and weaknesses. Modified-live vaccines provide stronger, longer-lasting, and more rapid protection, including local immunity. They are less expensive and may require only one dose to be effective. They have a potential to become active and cause disease, especially in a patient with a weakened immune system; to create immunosuppression, or to cause abortions in pregnant dogs. Careful handling and storage are required to prevent breakdown of the active ingredients.

Killed vaccines cannot become virulent and are less likely to be immunosuppressive or cause abortions. They remain stable during storage. They are more likely to cause allergic reactions, require more initial injections and more frequent booster shots, and do not produce local immunity.

A good example of the differences between modified-live and killed vaccines is the use of Bordatella vaccinations for kennel cough. Killed vaccines require two injections but are only 60-80 percent effective against disease and don't provide local immunity at the level of the airway. Modified- live vaccines are given intranasally, require only one dose, and start providing local immunity within 48 hours.

 

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Can you overload a puppy with too many things at once?

Probably not. Some researchers blame the rise of immunemediated disease on frequent vaccinations with large numbers of modified-live viruses. They feel this overstimulates the immune system, causing it to recognize everything as foreign and leading to tissue rejection. Currently, this theory is not accepted by most veterinary practitioners. Those who do adhere to this theory advise giving separate vaccination every few days instead of using combination vaccinations.

What this approach fails to consider is the interference caused by too-frequent administration of vaccines. Because the first shot will create a blocking effect and not allow the body to respond to a second or third shot a few days later, it is better to administer several antigens together than to divide the vaccines into many injections.

 

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It sounds like vaccinations are dangerous. Is it worth the risk?

Absolutely! The risks associated with vaccines are slight compared with the risk of contracting a fatal disease like distemper, rabies, or parvovirus.

 

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Shouldn't vaccines contain the most things possible?

No. Some people feel they receive a better value for their money if a vaccine contains six or seven or more antigens instead of the five-in-one combination most often used. Vaccination schedules based on your dog's age, breed, and lifestyle as well as your geographic location and your veterinarian's advice are more effective than trying to squeeze the most antigens into a one cc injection.

 

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My dog was vaccinated against (parvo, kennel cough, etc) and got it anyway. Why?

Vaccine breaks occur for many reasons. Fever, steroids, disease, and maternal antibodies will block the patient's ability to make antibodies. Improper storage and handling of the vaccines or incorrect administration will also lead to vaccine failure. If given too close together, vaccines can be blocked by earlier shots; given too far apart, the memory response of the immune system is not properly stimulated.

Vaccines given to very young puppies (under six weeks of age) or to sick or immunocompromised patients may be ineffective. In the case of parvovirus, it has been demonstrated that Dobermans and Rottweilers are more susceptible to infection. Some veterinarians recommend extra vaccinations for these dogs or for dogs who are often in contact with other dogs.

 

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How many shots does a dog or puppy need?

There is no one answer for this question, but a few basic rules apply. A minimum of two multivalent vaccinations (including distemper and parvo) given three to four weeks apart are required for every dog or puppy over three months old. An additional vaccination against rabies is also necessary. Vaccinations against coronavirus, Bordatella, or Lyme disease are based on owner's needs and veterinarian's advice.

For young puppies, vaccinations usually start at six-to-eight weeks of age and are given every three-to-four weeks until the puppy is 16 weeks of age. Recent information regarding parvovirus may extend this recommendation to 18 or even 20 weeks, especially for Dobes and Rottweilers.

 

 

 

 

 

Fleas, flies, ticks, etc.

The critters that live on our critters

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Introduction

Fleas

Signs of infestation

Flea bite dermatitis

Treatment

Grooming for fleas

Ticks

Mosquitos

Flies

Biting and stinging insects

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Introduction

God in his wisdom made the fly

And then forgot to tell us why

--------Ogden Nash

Nash's witticism could easily be applied to all the critters that bug pets and people during summer months

The world is a wondrous place where hundreds of thousands of animals and plants interact to form the environment as we know it. Each creature has carved its own niche -- a place where it eats, reproduces, and survives to reproduce again, for such is the nature of things. Man has chosen certain animals and plants to enhance his own niche, but some unwanted critters have come along for the ride, critters that could be more prevalent in any "spring of the swampy backyard." Moisture and heat are the prime ingredients for burgeoning populations of fleas, flies, mosquitoes, and other pests that bug Bowser by biting, stinging, and spreading disease.

These critters can easily be divided into two groups -- those that seek Bowser for a blood meal and those that bite or sting as a defensive mechanism. The former group includes fleas, flies, ticks, and mosquitoes; the latter includes wasps, bees, ants, spiders, and centipedes.

Herewith a discussion of common hitchhikers on household pets and the problems they cause when their quest for survival interferes with our own.

 

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Fleas

Spring is the season of renewal, of warmer weather, longer days, flowering trees and shrubs, and bright-colored pansies . . . and fleas.

The most common canine pest, the flea is actually a marvel of adaptability that would be much admired if they weren't so pesky. However, since they often carry tapeworms, can cause severe itching and even allergy, and often bite humans, their jumping and survival talents are reviled instead of revered.

By late spring, fleas begin to emerge from their pupae as adults and migrate to the nearest dog or cat for blood meals. An adult flea mates shortly after emergence and begins laying eggs within 36 hours. In her brief 50-day lifespan, a single female flea can lay more than 2000 eggs.

An adult flea is the slam-dunk champ of the insect world. About the size of a pinhead, it can jump about 100 times its own height, a far greater leap than that possible for the multi-million dollar basketball player. This ability to jump makes it possible to travel quickly from host to host and from host to hiding place for laying eggs.

Female fleas need blood to complete their reproductive cycle. Baby fleas need blood to grow. Although fleas prefer dog and cat blood, human blood will do in a pinch.

Fleas are marvelously adapted for survival. The female lays eggs on the host animal, but the eggs fall to the ground, carpet, sofa, dog bed, owner's bed, or easy chair where they hatch in two-to-five days. The flea larva feeds on organic debris in the environment. Within a week or two, depending on temperature and humidity, the larva spins a pupa (or cocoon) to protect it during metamorphosis to the adulthood.

In the hard-shelled pupa, the larva transforms from a tiny maggot-like creature into a six-legged blood-thirsty super-jumper able to leap 100 times its own height, and the cycle begins anew.

In the Midwestern US, the flea life cycle (adult flea --egg --larva -- pupa -- adult flea) takes about 35-40 days in early spring and 17-21 days in mid-summer. By late summer, cycles slow to two months or more, and they virtually shut down between November and March. In southern and Gulf Coast states, however, fleas complete their cycles in 20 days or less for most of the year and only slow down a bit in mid-winter.

Humidity is critical to flea survival. Eggs need relative humidity of 70-75 percent to hatch, and larvae need at least 50 percent humidity to survive. In humid areas, about 20 percent of the eggs survive to adulthood; in arid areas, less than five percent complete the cycle.

All bets are off when Fido brings fleas in for the winter. Household warmth can keep the cocooned larvae alive until conditions are ripe for emergence of the adults and may even allow life cycles to continue at a snail's pace.

 

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Signs of infestation

Fleas are masters of their universe. They can hide in a forest of pet hairs, especially on long-coated or double-coated dogs, and can zig-zag among and between hair shafts faster than an Olympic skier on a slalom course. And then there's the leap. Now you see a black speck with legs, and now you don't.

So, don't depend on seeing the flea to know if he's there. Instead, look for clues.

If Fido scratches, he may have been bitten, (No kidding!) but he may also have dry skin, an allergy, or mange mites. If he bites at his rear end especially around his tail or the inside or outside of his thighs, fleas are a possibility.

Flea dirt looks like sprinkled pepper on the dog. If you drop some of this "pepper" onto a damp paper towel and it turns reddish, it's fleas, not seasoning.

While Fido may be slightly bothered by a flea or two or may play host to a dozen or more without serious consequences, Rocky may be the unlucky recipient of a tapeworm infestation courtesy of mama flea and Sassy may be allergic to flea saliva and develop mild to severe skin reactions to even a single bite. The tapeworm or the skin bumps may be the only signs that the fleas are present.

 

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Flea bite dermatitis

When flea bites dog, proteins (antigens) in the insect's saliva can cause an immune system reaction — the release of immunoglobulin that in turn causes itching. Depending on the type of cell involved (mast cells, basophils, or T-lymphocytes in the blood) and the type of chemicals released, the irritation can begin immediately, in five-to-six hours or in 24-48 hours or a combination of the three — all from a single bite.

Small red raised bumps on the base of the tail and along the outside of the back legs, self-induced scratches, and thickened skin on the base of the tail are all signs of chronic flea allergy. The diagnosis can be confirmed with an intradermal skin allergy test.

Writing in the AKC Gazette, veterinary dermatologist Dr. John Gordon describes the intradermal test: "With intradermal (skin) allergy tests, a small amount of a specific concentration of flea antigen is injected into the surface layers of the skin. The flea antigen binds to immunoglobulin or is absorbed by T-lymphocytes to create an immediate, late phase, or delayed reaction. Unfortunately, late phase and delayed skin test reactions are often considered negative skin tests because the reaction is not documented. Careful observation will help avoid this problem."

Gordon described two other allergy tests that rely on drawing blood from the dog, but said that they are not as reliable as the intradermal test.

 

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Treatment

Dog owners have access to a plethora of flea control products from herbs and electronics to biological controls. Powerful chemicals such as Dursban and diazinon and systemic insecticides such as the ingredients in Proban, Prospot, and Spotton seem to be on the way out. The systemic insecticides can build to toxic levels in the dog if not used extremely carefully. Some products repel fleas, some kill adult fleas, some kill larva or eggs, and some prevent fleas from growing and reproducing.

Garlic and brewer's yeast are popular flea repellents with the natural crowd, but there are no tests that indicate these diet supplements are effective. Many dog owners believe they work, however.

Electronic flea traps are sometimes used to attract and kill the pests before they attack the dog, but they do nothing about fleas in the yard or flea eggs or larvae in the house.

Flea collars have mixed results depending on the chemical involved, the size of the dog, and the density of the dog's coat.

The new generation of controls includes natural or genetically engineered pyrethrum, a daisy; flea-specific growth inhibitors (products containing fenoxycarb or methoprene); an environmental control that desiccates fleas and larvae; a once-a-month pill (Program) that prevents the formation of chitin, the flea's external body covering; and new surface products applied to the dog's skin or coat (Advantage and Frontline). Unlike the toxic insecticides in products such as Spoton, Proban, and Prospot, the ingredients in Frontline and Advantage are not absorbed into the bloodstream and are toxic only to fleas, not to dogs or their owners. Program, Frontline, and Advantage are available only through veterinarians; all other flea controls can be purchased over-the-counter in pet supply stores or catalogs.

The type of control depends on the extent of the dog's problem and the preferences of the dog's owner. The pill or topical application take less effort, but they should not be used alone in a heavy infestation because they do not treat the environment. The pill works when flea bites dog, so may not be suitable for an allergic dog. The topical solutions kill adult fleas and have some residual action as long as they remain on the pet's hair — even hair that has been shed on carpets and furniture.

Pyrethrums kill adult fleas but are short-lived. Permethrins, the genetically altered form pyrethrum, lasts for 10 days or so. Pyrethrum and permethrin are often found in shampoos and in pet and premise sprays containing growth inhibitors.

With mild flea infestations, an occasional bath with a permethrin shampoo or a Program prescription may do the trick, especially when combined with a premise spray that contains a growth inhibitor or with application of sodium polyborate, an insecticide that kills fleas by lethal constipation and desiccation. More serious infestations may call for the big guns, especially if the dog is allergic. But whatever combination platter of flea treatments you choose, make sure you have something on hand for the hot, humid days of summer when fleas can invade in hordes.

 

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Grooming for fleas

Flea droppings will most likely be more obvious than the crafty critters themselves, so run a fine-toothed comb through the dog's hair near his tail and flick any debris into a container of water. Flea droppings contain blood and will turn the water pink. Once you identified fleas as the culprit, the attack should be multi-faceted.

Groom the dog daily with a fine-toothed comb and drown the fleas in a container of soapy water;

Dip the dog in a pyrethrin dip that has low toxicity and a residual effect

Treat the house, especially areas where the dog sleeps or spends a lot of time.

Whatever the items in your flea control kit, be sure to wash all of Bowser's bedding, spray his bed or crate, and treat the house and yard as indicated. Put some flea powder in the vacuum cleaner bag as well.

 

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Ticks

With eight legs instead of six, the tick is cousin to the spider, not the insect. It's claim to fame is its penchant for spreading disease as it feasts on mammal blood. There are several species that feed on dogs, including the wood tick, the brown dog tick, and the deer tick, and they all thrive in tall grass, shrubby areas, and woods.

Ticks can carry Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, encephalitis, tularemia, tick paralysis, and Lyme disease, so it is important to prevent tick infestations in domestic dogs.

Lyme disease, a frightening collection of symptoms that can mimic fatigue, heart problems, and arthritis and cause birth defects, affects dogs and horses as well as people and has been found in every state but Montana and New Mexico. Lyme Disease is tough to diagnose but can be treated with antibiotics.

Unlike the flea, the tick is a sluggish mover and can easily be picked off the dog with tweezers as it crawls about looking for a feeding spot. So, after a walk in the woods, check Bowser (and yourself) for ticks from stem to stern. Look for feeding ticks around the dog's head and ears and in his armpits and the inside of his thighs. If you miss one as it crawls, you'll likely find it when it latches on to feed as the engorged body is hard to miss in a hands-on inspection.

Daily grooming can find ticks that have not yet become embedded in the skin. Ticks can be picked up on the comb and flicked into a container of alcohol.

Embedded ticks should be removed immediately. First, forget all you ever heard about coating ticks with petroleum jelly, burning their rear ends with a match or lighted cigarette, dousing them with lighter fluid or gasoline, etc. Just protect fingers from the tick's body fluids with surgical gloves or a plastic bag, grasp the tick firmly, rock it back and forth a few times, and pull it out. If a patch of skin comes along, it's unlikely that any of the tick's head has been left behind.

A dab of antiseptic cream on the spot where the tick was removed will help prevent local infection, especially on tender ears, a favorite feeding place for ticks.

To control ticks in the environment, keep grass trimmed and control the spread of shrubbery and tall weeds.

If you, a family member, or your dog falls ill after removal of a tick, be sure to tell the doctor that RMSF or Lyme disease -- depending on the symptoms -- is a possibility.

 

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Mosquitoes

The mosquito prefers to bite people but will settle for Fido. Although the itchiness of mosquito bites is short-lived, this insect carries the heartworm microfilariae, the immature stage of the heartworm, and can transfer it to the dog. Heartworm infestations kill dogs. Since heartworm preventive can have adverse effects on dogs already infested with the parasite, owners should have their dogs tested each spring. Once the dog is found to be heartworm free, the preventive can be given.

Mosquitoes are likely to be abundant in many areas this summer after an unusually rainy spring. After ingesting enough blood to satisfy their reproductive needs, the female mosquito lays her eggs in water, where they develop into larvae and adults. Elimination of standing water helps control mosquitoes, so remove any debris that can catch rain water and dump the water from plant-pot saucers. If you have a pond, keep the water aerated to disturb the surface tension.

If you walk with your dog, avoid marshy places.

If you live in mosquito country be sure to get Bowser checked for heartworm. This is a parasite infestation in which prevention is cheaper and safer than cure and where early diagnosis is a life-saver.

 

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Flies

Some dogs are bothered by flies that bite their ears. In severe infestations, the flies cover the ears and leave behind bloody bite marks that seem to be irritating and can become infected. Some dogs cause hair loss by rubbing their ears to relieve the discomfort.

Prevention is better than cure. Owners use a variety of salves, insect repellents, and insecticides to kill the flies or keep them away. They slather stick insecticides, Vicks Vapo-rub, Vaseline, and other products to keep the flies off and use antibiotic creams to soothe the bites. However, the best prevention is to keep affected dogs inside during the heat of the day.

 

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Biting and stinging insects

These critters bite to protect themselves or their nests. They include bees, wasps, yellow jackets, ants, spiders, and centipedes. Their attacks can cause allergic reactions or neurological or other symptoms.

Dogs come in contact with biting and stinging insects in the home and yard. Spiders hunt in the garden, explore the house and garage, and set up housekeeping wherever prey is to be found. Black widows and brown recluse spiders are rare in many areas but if they are found in your area you should be familiar with them. Wolf spiders and others will bite if picked up, stepped on, or startled by a waking dog. The bite may leave an itchy or painful welt or could cause more generalized symptoms. If you suspect your dog has been bitten by a spider or many spiders, call your veterinarian.

Dogs often get stung by bees, wasps, or yellow jackets because they stalk them as prey or snap at them in irritation. Although one sting should make a dog swear off these hovering, buzzing insects, avoidance is not always possible. Yellow jackets generally nest in the ground, but have been known to nest in houses, usually between the floors or in the attic. They become frantically active in August and early September, are aggressive about defending their nest sites, and are fierce competitors for food. Yellow jackets often attend late summer picnics and crowd around trash barrels, hazards to people and pets alike.

Paper wasps, the ones that build those lovely layered nests attached to eaves, under decks, outside windows, etc., also will sting a dog or a human. Bumblebees and honeybees round out the group; although they are not particularly aggressive, they will sting if annoyed sufficiently.

Since paper wasps and yellow jackets can be such a threat, it is wise to eliminate their nests. Since they tend to forage throughout the day and return to the nest at night, no action should be taken until dusk. At that time, the nest can be sprayed with a commercial wasp and hornet killer. If the nest is in the house, an exterminator should be consulted.

Bumblebees and honeybees should be left alone to ply their trade, for they pollinate many of the plants that produce this year's vegetables and fruits and seeds for next year's crops.

If Bowser does get stung, remove the stinger with tweezers, make a paste of baking soda, and apply it to the sting. Ice packs can also relieve swelling, and calamine lotion relieves itching. If the sting causes widespread swelling, call your veterinarian or emergency clinic.

Although ants will bite if disturbed, few dogs will bother them because they taste bad. So, unless Bowser strolls through an ant nest, he's unlikely to be bothered by them.

Centipedes, those multi-legged creatures that sometimes scurry across the kitchen floor, are generally beneficial (they eat ants, flies, and cockroaches), but their bite can be very painful.

Insects and their cousins conjure up disgust and fear in many people, but the great majority of these species are harmless and many of those that bite or sting do so only when provoked. While it is important to control those that spread disease or damage crops, each family should base it's method of control on the seriousness of the infestation and the potential for disease. For some, management is enough; for others the arsenal of chemical and biological controls is necessary.

 

 

 

Is it an emergency?

These conditions require immediate attention

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The Emergency Veterinary Clinic of Cincinnati compiled this list of pet health emergencies. If the animal has any of the following symptoms, call your local emergency care facility and tell the receptionist that you are bringing in a dog or cat that has

Difficulty breathing,

noisy respiration,

blue tongue,

gasping for breath.

Bleeding that does not stop from any part of the body; apply pressure with a clean cloth and go!

Bloated or distended abdomen or swollen or painful abdomen with or without vomiting.

Inability to urinate or move bowels but continues to try or has bloody stool or urine or painful defecation or urination.

Heatstroke

heavy panting

extreme weakness

body temperature about 104 degrees Fahrenheit.

Inability to deliver puppies or kittens, labor contractions for longer than one hour or more than 15 minutes of labor with the fetus or membrane showing.

Loss of balance or consciousness or seizure, including

tremors,

coma,

staggering,

convulsions,

sudden blindness,

tilting of the head,

biting at imaginary objects,

sudden changes in disposition such as unusual withdrawal or out-of-character aggressiveness.

Pain, severe or continuous.

Major trauma, injury, or shock from

falls,

vehicle accidents,

wounds,

cuts,

broken bones

shows signs of:

weakness,

collapse,

shallow breathing,

rapid heartbeat,

bewildered appearance,

dilated pupils.

Ingested poison; bring the container or the commercial or chemical name of the product or a list of ingredients if you have it.

Penetrating wounds anyplace, but especially in the chest or abdomen.

Vomiting or diarrhea with blood or violent episodes.

Lameness and cannot bear any weight on the leg.

Any other signs that look serious, such as:

eye problems,

severe itching with self-mutilation,

severe hives

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The first six months

Puppies are never too young to learn

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Introduction

Old dog tales

New puppies

Control

Keep the dog you have

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Introduction

Sassy and Michelle play tug-of-war with Michelle’s socks, Sassy growling her puppy growls and Michelle yelling at the puppy for tearing the cotton with her needle-sharp teeth. Sassy is a three-month-old Airedale Terrier.

Tiger is still peeing in the corner, even after he’s been outside to relieve himself. Tiger is a five- month-old Chow Chow mix.

Misty chases Sean and Traci and grabs their pant legs. Last week Traci fell and banged up her knee and Sean smacked the puppy for chasing his sister. Misty is a four-month-old Shetland Sheepdog.

Dixie takes her owner for a drag every morning and sometimes darts out the door for a romp on her own. Dixie is a six-month-old Labrador Retriever.

Sassy, Tiger, Misty, and Dixie are prime candidates for banishment to the back yard or surrender to an animal shelter.

 

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Old dog tales

The first six months after puppy comes home are critical in shaping the relationship between puppy and family. Lapses and mistakes here can take months to fix, and families often do not have the time, persistence, or inclination to repair companionship-gone-wrong. Thus a trip to the shelter or rescue group with a tale of woe and a plea to find this "good dog but he . . . " a new home, a trip often followed a week or month or year later with purchase or adoption of another dog and a new beginning on the same path.

It’s easy to blame the puppy or the breed – Labs are really too energetic or terriers are too nippy or "We only took this puppy because he was free," but the truth is that almost any dog can be suitable for almost any family if the family is willing and able to spend the time and energy on the first six months.

Much of the early problems in puppy training occur because of the persistence of an old belief that dogs are not ready for training until they are six months old.

Wrong!

Puppies are ready to learn when they are born. Training merely formalizes the learning so that the family and the puppy can get along and build a bond that lasts a lifetime. The trick is to teach appropriate behaviors and squelch inappropriate behaviors so that Sassy or Tiger becomes the dog of your dreams – faithful, well-mannered, playful, obedient, a joy to live with and brag about.

 

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New puppies

New puppy care is relatively easy if tiring. Just get the little guy outside to relieve himself, feed him three times a day, and put him in the crate to sleep. He doesn’t really need a leash because he can’t run fast enough to get away, he’s fun to play with because he’ll chase the ball and act ferocious, he’s ready to lick your face at a moment’s notice, and he’s sooooo cute when he’s asleep.

Christmas puppies reach the terrible three-month stage about the end of January, and then the troubles begin. At three months, most puppies can run faster than most kids and many adults. And they are beginning to assert some independence that may translate to growling if a toddler approaches the food bowl or a grade school youngster tries to retrieve a stolen action figure.

By four months, the pooch is agile enough to slip out the door when the kids come home from school and big enough to knock a nine-year-old on his backside. He may also be bold enough to steal snacks from tiny hands or from the table.

By five months, a big-breed puppy is large enough and strong enough to drag even older kids and small adults – if they are lucky enough or foolish enough to clip a leash to the collar.

By six months, the pup may have destroyed the furniture in his teething frenzy, eaten a dozen pairs of socks, ruined bedspreads and stuffed toys and carpets, and required a couple of trips to the vet for intestinal upsets caused by his destructive activities. By this time, the kids may be afraid of the growing pup, Mom may be disgusted with his antics, and Dad may be ready to ship him out as an economic measure.

All this trouble can be avoided if the pup is trained from the moment he arrives in the home. And it can become a thing of the past if appropriate remedies are applied. In other words, those Christmas puppies can be well on the way to becoming loyal, affectionate, and obedient family pets by Easter with a modicum of persistence, a change in focus, and a determination to save the relationship.

 

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Control

The best control over the dog and family relationship is the selection of an appropriate breed or mix for the family character and circumstances. Active families will be happier with active dogs; neat families will be happier with dogs that don’t shed and drool; and quiet, shy families will be happier with mild-mannered breeds that need only moderate exercise. However, if a mistake has been made in the selection of a breed, all is not lost. With flexibility and determination, there’s no need to give the pet away or to doom him to the backyard or the animal shelter.

It is up to the adults in the family to exert control over the relationship with the puppy. Control is physical and mental. Physical control involves guiding the puppy to do the right thing or placing him in a position to do the right thing. It does not mean spanking him with a hand or object when he makes a mistake. Mental control means developing a relationship with the puppy that clearly places you in the role of leader. If you have mental control, the puppy looks to you for approval and obeys your commands.

Control is established in a number of ways.

With a leash and collar: Even if Sassy couldn’t possibly run fast enough to escape, she should learn to wear a collar and leash when she is less than three months old. If she pulls on the leash, you can change direction and coax her to follow you. Make it a game. Let her chase you; if she’s a pantleg-grabber, distract her with a toy or treat. Don’t drag her around; make it fun to be with you and she’ll learn quickly.

With food: Feed Tiger at least twice a day. Teach him to sit before you put the bowl on the floor by holding it above his head. When he tips his head to look up, his haunches will hit the floor. Praise him and quickly put the bowl down. If he stands up too soon, have someone hold him gently in sitting position while you put the bowl down. Treats are great training aids for puppies. Just make sure that Tiger obeys a command before getting his treat.

With a crate: Crates are dog rooms, not dog prisons. They are safe havens for a tired or sick puppy and a necessity for putting puppy out of harm’s way. Crates protect furniture and carpets from puppy damage when you are not home. And crates are great relievers of frustration – when Misty is running amok and the kids are screaming that she stole their cookies and you just discovered a pile of feces in the corner, it’s great to send her to her room until she calms down and you get things under control.

With companionship: A dog that travels with its family is a dog that has good manners out of necessity. And a well-mannered dog is a joy to take along on trips to the kids’ soccer game or the park or a family picnic or even a vacation. On the other hand, a dog that is banished to the back yard or the garage because it is ill-mannered generally becomes moreso out of boredom and loneliness.

With formal training: Obedience training has lost its mystique in recent years. No longer the sole province of Hollywood trainers and show competitors, obedience training has been modernized and adapted for family pets. Dog training clubs and schools exist in just about every nook and cranny of the country. Kennel clubs and breed clubs offer assistance to pet owners and provide literature about selecting a breed and breeder and training a puppy at hundreds of dog shows throughout the country. Many animal shelters offer counseling services and obedience classes to help prevent or solve problems so that families can develop a solid relationship with their pets. And dozens of books are available to help owners understand puppy behavior and train pets at home.

By spay or neuter surgery: Dogs that are spayed or neutered tend to be less aggressive and to stay at home. They also tend to be healthier.

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Keep the dog you have

When the bond between man and pet fails to blossom or breaks down, dogs frequently end up in an animal shelter. Many young dogs surrendered to shelters are euthanized because they have behavior problems that need never have developed. They are runaways or chewers or nippers or growlers or barkers or domineering or fearful or just plain difficult to control. Sometimes they are adopted by families that can deal with the behaviors, but often they are returned to the shelter because the new owners are as frustrated as those who surrendered the pooch in the first place. And most often, these dogs are euthanized before they get a chance at a new home.

The trick to a fantastic long-term relationship with a dog is to prevent bad behaviors from developing and to train away bad behaviors that have formed. The first six months are crucial to achieve that end.

 

 

 

 

The joys and frustrations of new puppies

It's not ALL fun and games!

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Introduction

Children and puppies

Same breed, second time around

Fun is the key

Puppies and holidays

Advice from our dog breeders' round table. . . .

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Introduction

"He won't stop whining."

"She chews everything in sight."

"He won't come when he's called."

"She scares the kids when she jumps and nips."

"He doesn't want to be cuddled."

"She's the cutest puppy, but ..."

Visions of fun and frolic dance in our heads when we decide to bring a puppy into the family, but those visions can deteriorate into frustration for those who are unprepared for the difficulties of puppy training and adjustment to family life.

There's no doubt that the first few weeks with a new puppy can be exasperating. That tiny bundle of fur that was soooo friendly at the kennel, the pet store, or the animal shelter has some behaviors that drive people crazy. It's little consolation that these behaviors are normal for dogs; what matters is that the housetraining go smoothly and relatively quickly, that the nipping of children be held to a minimum, and that chewing on furniture and clothing be stopped or prevented.

It's important to remember that puppies are always learning about their environment and their people, but it can take time for learning to crystallize into acceptable behavior patterns. For example, if a 10-week-old puppy doesn't have accidents in the house, it could well be that the owner is trained to read puppy signals and get the little guy outside at the proper time. Most puppies are housetrained by four months of age, but it may take supreme diligence on the part of owners to prevent accidents until that time.

The first 16 weeks of a puppy's life are critical in determining how he will fit into his family. Early socialization from birth to purchase at seven or eight weeks cannot be replaced later; a puppy that misses out on play time with Mom and littermates or early gentle handling by people can develop behavior problems no matter what the family does to prevent them.

Relax. First of all, these days do pass, often with lightening quickness. Second, puppies really are pretty easy to deal with - a couple of square meals, several trips outside, and lots of playtime balanced with lots of sleeping are the general rule for the first few weeks at home.

Socialization is important, but it needn't be a chore. Puppies should be exposed to everyday noises, to a variety of surfaces, and to handling of their bodies by adults and children before going to their new homes. Once in the home, their horizons should be broadened even further, but rather than a task that must be done, socialization is a perfect opportunity for playtime and bonding. Dr. Gary Clemons of Milford Animal Hospital gives details about puppy socialization in Puppy training techniques

 

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Children and puppies

Children and dogs are a natural combination, but children should always be taught to be gentle with puppies and parents should always supervise interactions.

All children past crawling stage can participate in puppy care in some fashion. A toddler can pick up puppy toys and put them in a box, help straighten puppy bedding, and learn to keep his own toys out of range of puppy teeth. A pre-school child can do these things and help fix puppy meals and accompany Mom and puppy to the veterinary clinic. A kindergartner can help teach the puppy to sit before he gets a treat and can help with leash training, and an older child can teach puppy tricks and actively participate in good manners training under adult supervision.

A few cautions, however:

No hugging. A puppy held close to a child's face can accidentally scratch or nip if it becomes frightened and tries to get away.

No dragging. Kids should never be allowed to drag a puppy around by the leg, the collar, or a leash.

No feeding from the table. Puppies and kids should be separated when food is around so puppies don't become beggars and thieves and kids don't tease pups with tasty morsels.

No spanking. Children should never spank a puppy for bad behavior. (Of course, adults should not spank puppies either!)

From the puppy's point of view, children can be either easy to intimidate or objects of fear. Children who run and scream can excite bold puppies into uncontrolled madness that includes growling and biting or can induce fear in shy puppies. Children who try to dominate puppies can have the opposite effect - rather than obey the child, the puppy can turn into a biter. Children who are afraid can also turn puppies into bullies that growl and nip to get their way.

 

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Same breed, second time around

People often hark back to the dogs of their childhood when choosing a family pet, and so look for another dog of the same breed or type and get a rude awakening when the newcomer isn't a clone of Lassie or Pal. Dealing with a nippy dog when you remember your old family Collie as perfect or teaching a dominant puppy to obey when the Buddy of your early years was a perfect gentleman can definitely put a kink in the relationship.

It helps to remember that, while dog breeds have definite ideal temperaments and behavior patterns, individual dogs fit the patterns in individual ways. Thus a Miniature Poodle can be bright, yappy, and active to the point of hysteria or can be quiet and calm and eager to please. A breed standard may describe breed character as aggressive to other animals, but an individual dog may get along fine with other family pets and with dogs in public. The opposite could be true as well: an individual dog of a generally friendly breed can be either shy or dominant, depending on its genetics and early handling.

In any case, the Collie puppy that joins the family today may resemble the Collie of the owner's youth in appearance and in many other breed characteristics, but it will have an individual personality that may be either bolder or more submissive, calmer or more excitable, or easier or harder to train that the dog he grew up with.

 

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Fun is the key

Puppy training and socialization should be fun for both owner and dog. Puppies can be taught to sit, lie down, and come for rewards. Even eight-week-old puppies can sit for their dinner or treats and lie down to be groomed.

Puppies that resist can be taught with persistence and consistency on the part of all family members. It does no good if Mom requires puppy to sit before meals if Dad doesn't follow through or if Susie slips Fluffy a bit of bacon from her breakfast plate.

Physical handling is seldom necessary when teaching puppies to sit or lie down if you use a treat and a gentle voice. Actually, you can teach Sparky to sit without touching him or giving a command; just show him a treat or lure him to his dinner spot and hold the food above his head so he has to look up to see it. If he parks his rear in order to look up, tell him "Good boy!, Good sit!" If you hold the treat too high, he'll jump to get it, so keep it just out of reach. If he backs up instead of sitting, let him sniff the food, then move it higher so he has to look up. If he still backs up, work him against a wall.

Soon Sparky will sit when he sees you fix his dinner or get a treat out of the cookie jar. Then you can add the command "sit" and use it when you want to clip his leash to his collar, go in or out the door, get in or out of the car, or any other appropriate occasion.

Once he knows sit on command, you can also teach Sparky to lie down without touching him. When he's sitting, let him sniff the reward, then move it straight down to the floor. When he follows it with his nose, pull it along the floor between his front legs so he has to lie down to reach it. If he stands up, start over. When he lies down (elbows on the floor), praise him with "Good boy! Good down!" and give him the treat.

 

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Puppies and holidays

If you bring a pup home for the holidays ...

be sure to provide him with a crate to serve as a safe place. It should be away from any hustle and bustle and food temptations.

stick to puppy food for the newcomer; table food, especially rich table food, is likely to upset his stomach.

keep him away from the Christmas tree so he can't steal ornaments, burn his nose on the lights, nibble on garlands, or tear through gift packages.

make sure he gets outside to relieve himself in a timely fashion. Set an alarm if a reminder is necessary.

keep house plants out of reach

Don't leave perishables on the coffee table.

don't let him get over-excited.

Don't let over-excited children give him grief.

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Advice from our dog breeders' round table. . . .

Our breeders send puppies home with more than a smile and good wishes. Along with contracts and assurances that they will be available to answer questions and help with training problems, they give advice for getting things off on the right paw.

Here are the top two pieces of advice they give to puppy buyers.

 

 

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First, be consistent with your puppy. Your puppy is like a sponge, waiting to soak up all you teach him, both good and bad. Be firm, be steady, and make sure you show your puppy what you want. Praise, praise, praise when any good behavior is displayed. When your puppy is naughty, direct the behavior towards good behavior so you can praise. It is so much easier to encourage good behavior in the beginning, than it is to undo bad behavior habits. Make sure your puppy understands what you want. Be a loving teacher.

Second, crate train your puppy. I know, it is hard to hear your puppy cry. You feel cruel, but let me assure you, you are not! Just like children need time-outs and naps, so do puppies. Putting a puppy in a confined space like a crate is no different than putting a child in a crib. Your puppy will learn that his crate is his own private secure safe place. There are lots of educational materials about crate training your dog, so I won't go through all the steps here.

A crate-trained dog is a well-behaved dog. You never know when you might need to confine your dog for an extended period of time. A crated dog can go anywhere safely. You can take your dog on vacations and leave your dog in its crate in the hotel room while you shop or go out to eat. You can travel by air and take your dog, knowing he is trusting of all the airport and jet commotion because he feels safe in his crate. And if your dog ever has to have surgery and be confined afterwards, he will do so without protest and risk of additional injury.

Personally, as a dog breeder, I believe crate training is the most important thing an owner can teach a dog. It teaches security, patience, trust, and understanding.

Congratulations again on your new puppy. I wish you many happy years together.