History

Chihuahuas were originally thought to be descendants of an ancient, similar, but slightly larger breed associated with royalty in Aztec civilizations known as the Techichi. However, because of the lack of archaeological remains, it is now believed that Chihuahuas were brought to Mexico by Spanish settlers. The most current theory holds that Spanish merchants brought Chihuahuas to Spain by way of their trade routes with China and from there to Mexico. The well documented practice in China of dwarfing both plants and animals is the basis for the theory that Chihuahuas originated there,]But another theory is that they originated in Egypt and were traded into Spain and later Mexico. Chihuahuas were first taken into the United States by American visitors to Mexico.

Appearance

Chihuahuas are best known for their large eyes; small size; and large, erect ears. The AKC (American Kennel Club) recognizes two varieties of Chihuahua: the long-coat and the smooth-coat. Many long-coat Chihuahuas have very thin hair, but other long coats have a very dense, thick coat. Breed standards for this dog do not generally specify a height, only a weight and a description of their overall proportions. As a result, height varies more than within many other breeds. Generally, the height ranges between six and ten inches at the withers. However, some dogs grow as tall as twelve to fifteen inches. AKC show dogs must weigh no more than six lb (2.7 kg); the FCI standard calls for dogs ideally between 1.5 and three kg (3.3 to 6.6 lb), although smaller ones are acceptable in the show ring. However, pet-quality Chihuahuas (that is, those bred or purchased as companions rather than show dogs) can, and do, range above these weights, to ten pounds or even more if they have large bone structures or are allowed to become overweight. This does not mean they are not purebred Chihuahuas, it only means that they do not meet the requirements to enter a conformation show. Oversize Chihuahuas are seen in some of the best, and worst, bloodlines. Chihuahuas come in many colors, from solid blacks to solid whites, spotted, or a variety of other colors like fawn (tan), chocolate, (gray), silver, tricolored (chocolate, blue, or black with tan and white markings), merle, brindle, and, each of these colors varies in shades and tones, as fawn can be a term to describe a tan dog from a very pale cream to a deep (almost red) tan, or any shade in between, and the chocolate coloration can range from a milky light shade of brown, to a deep mahogany brown, to a dark brown that is almost black.

Temperament

Chihuahuas are prized for their devotion and personality. Their alertness, intelligence, and size make them easily adaptable to a variety of environments, including the city and small apartments. While Chihuahuas are often stereotyped as high-strung, correct training and socialization can result in an outstanding companion animal. Chihuahuas are not well-suited as small children's pets because of their size and physical frailty. However, many Chihuahuas focus their devotion on one person, becoming overly jealous of that person's human relationships. This can be mitigated through socialization. Chihuahuas also tend to have a "clannish" nature, often preferring the companionship of other Chihuahuas over other dogs. Also, Chihuahuas seem to have no concept of their own size, and may fearlessly confront larger animals, which can result in injury. Chihuahuas are sensitive to the cold due to their small body size. Chihuahua owners often dress their dogs in sweaters or coats in cold weather. However longer-haired chihuahuas may be fine without additional protection and in the summer may still be known to pant.

Health

This breed requires expert veterinary attention in areas such as birthing and dental care. Chihuahuas are also prone to some genetic anomalies, often neurological ones, such as epilepsy and seizure disorders. Chihuahuas, and other toy breeds, are also prone to the sometimes painful condition known as patella luxation and collapsing trachea. Another genetic abnormality in Chihuahuas and toy breeds is hydrocephalus, or water on the brain. This condition surfaces in young puppies and often results in the death of a puppy by the time that it reaches six months of age. It is thought that this disease is often diagnosed by the pup having an abnormally large head during the first several months of life, but other symptoms are more noticeable (since "a large head" is such a broad description). Chihuahua puppies exhibiting hydrocephalus usually have patchy skull platelets rather than a solid bone, and typically are lethargic and do not grow at the same pace as their siblings. A true case of hydrocephalus can be diagnosed by a veterinarian, though the prognosis is grim. Chihuahuas are also known for their moleras, a soft spot in their skulls. Chihuahuas are the only breed of dog to be born with an incomplete skull. The molera does fill in with age, but great care needs to be taken during the first six months until the skull is fully formed. Many veterinarians are not familiar with Chihuahuas as a breed, and mistakenly confuse a molera with hydrocephalus. The Chihuahua Club of America has issued a statement regarding this often deadly misdiagnosis Chihuahuas can also be at risk for hypoglycemia, or low blood sugar. Left unattended, hypoglycemia can lead to coma. Chihuahuas are also prone to eye infections due to their large, round, protruding eyes and their relatively low ground clearance. Although figures often vary, as with any breed, the average lifespan for a Chihuahua is approximately 8 to 18 years of age. Chihuahua's are very social dogs and like to meet other dogs, but some are temperamental and aggressive.

Nutrition

Chihuahuas are sometimes picky eaters, and care must be taken to provide them with adequate nutrition. At the same time, care must be exercised not to overfeed this tiny breed. Overweight Chihuahuas are prone to joint injuries, tracheal collapse, chronic bronchitis, and shortened life span.

"Teacup" and "Deer-faced" Chihuahuas

The Official A.K.C. Breed Standard describes the Chihuahua as a small dog that comes in two varieties or coat types. The difference in coat type (the Long Coat and the Smooth Coat) is the only official description used to identify a difference within this breed. ALL Chihuahuas are toy dogs. As with all living things, there will be size variance between individual dogs within this breed. Look within the human family -brothers and sisters will differ in height and in weight, as well as other physical attributes. They are described as humans, male or female, and there is never a need to break the description down further. The same holds true in regard to the Chihuahua. Unfortunately, the additional adjectives used to describe the size differences and physical appearances are many and have been misused for so long they now seem legitimate. Teacup, Pocket Size, Tiny Toy, Miniature or Standard - are just a few of the many tags and labels that have been attached to this breed over the years. These are breeder-invented terms and may be used to entice prospective buyers into thinking that puppies described in this way are of greater monetary value. They are not and the use of these terms is incorrect and misleading. Occasionally, within a litter, there may be a puppy that is unusually small ("a runt"). That puppy is a small Chihuahua and any other breakdown in description is not correct. To attach any of these additional labels to any puppy is to misrepresent that Chihuahua and causes a great deal of confusion among potential owners who are looking for a Chihuahua. No Kennel Club endorses nor condones the use of any of these terms and would caution the perspective puppy buyer not to be misled by them. It is recognized that many Chihuahua fanciers do want the very small puppy. While they are adorable and can be perfectly healthy, the buyer should be cautioned as to the extra care that may be required with regard to their general health and well-being

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Dealing with Your Chihuahua's Health Issues

While Chihuahuas have fewer genetic defects than many breeds (maybe because so many breeders try hard to eliminate problems), no breed is perfect. The following sections show you some idiosyncrasies — a few serious but most not — that are sometimes seen in Chihuahuas and other Toy breeds.

Subluxation of the patella ( luxating Patella )

In dog lingo, subluxation of the patella is called slipped stifles or loose kneecaps. When it occurs, the kneecap (we're talking about the rear legs) slips out of its groove — sometimes often and sometimes rarely — depending on the severity of the problem. If your dog is one of the unlucky few whose kneecaps slip often, surgery may be the solution. A dog with a mild case can live a normal life, kind of like a person with a trick knee. Subluxation of the patella is a relatively common problem in small breeds and some large ones as well.

Hypoglycemia

Hypoglycemia means low blood sugar and is a common problem in young Toy breed puppies, although most of them grow out of it before they are old enough to leave the breeder. But for a few, it's a danger throughout their lives. Symptoms of low blood sugar are a staggering gait, glassy eyes, and sometimes either limpness or rigidity. If the dog doesn't receive immediate help, he can suffer seizures, unconsciousness, and finally, death. Treatment involves putting some sugar in your dog's mouth, calling your veterinarian, and heading for the clinic. Once you know your dog has a tendency toward hypoglycemia, you can prevent further attacks by changing his feeding schedule to small amounts several times a day and avoiding sugary treats (check the ingredients before buying dog treats). Too much sugar in his food can put Pepe on a roller coaster ride of sugar highs and lows rather than keeping his blood sugar nice and level. If you get your Chi used to taking delicious liquid from an eyedropper, administering liquid medication becomes a cinch. Occasionally melt a teaspoon of vanilla ice cream, put it in an eyedropper and give it to her just as if it was medicine.

Collapsing trachea

Collapsing trachea is a problem for Toy dogs of many breeds. The symptoms include coughing, shortness of breath, and exhaustion. Although it appears more often in dogs older than 5 years, an occasional puppy has it from birth. To understand the condition, think of the trachea as a straw made of cartilage that carries air from the neck to the chest. When the cartilage collapses, breathing becomes difficult, kind of like sipping soda through a flattened straw. Your vet can treat the condition with medication, but if you smoke, your Chi's prognosis may be poor. Secondhand smoke is a proven contributing factor to the problem . . . and smoke tends to settle low, where a little dog's nose is. DO NOT CONFUSE THIS WITH “REVERSE SNEEZING”

Heart murmur

Heart murmurs are relatively uncommon in Chihuahuas and even those that have one usually have the functional type. As in people, that means they can be as active and athletic as they want and live long, normal lives.

Molera

The Chihuahua's molera(a.k.a. fontanel) is considered a breed characteristic and not a defect. Most Chihuahuas (80 percent to 90 percent) have a molera — a soft spot on the top of their head similar to a human baby's soft spot. But unlike babies, most Chihuahuas don't outgrow it. Although it usually shrinks as the dog matures and ends up between nickel- and dime-sized, Pepe's molera won't be a problem as long as you're gentle when petting or handling his head. In rare cases, the molera remains quite large and can be a sign of a serious problem called hydrocephalus (see the next section). But don't borrow trouble. Hydrocephalus has several other signs besides a larger-than-usual molera.

Hydrocephalus

A dog with hydrocephalus (a.k.a. water on the brain) may have an unusually large head for his size caused by swelling. Other signs of this fatal condition are frequent falling, seizures, a lot of white showing in the eyes, an unsteady gait, and east-west eyes (the opposite of crossed eyes). A dog with hydrocephalus is in pain and won't live long, so euthanasia is the humane solution. (Euthanasia is the medical term for a humane, vet-assisted death.)

Going under anesthesia

The possibility that your dog may someday need anesthesia is one main reason why you need to choose a veterinarian who is accomplished in treating Toy dogs. Although anesthesia-related deaths are rare, and usually the result of an allergic reaction, its use is potentially dangerous. Your vet uses anesthesia only when necessary (before surgery, for example). Be sure you know how to clean Pepe's teeth properly so that cleaning them under anesthesia isn't necessary. When your dog has to go under anesthesia (during spaying or neutering, for example), ask your veterinarian if any necessary dental work (such as pulling impacted baby teeth) can be done at the same time. Be sure your vet uses one of the modern gas anesthetics. They are much safer than the old fashioned intravenous products.

Watch those eyes

It's certainly not a condition, but because Chihuahuas have big eyes and live close to the floor, they are more prone to eye injuries than a lot of other breeds. Put several drops of saline solution in your dog's eye if the injury seems minor. That's often all it takes to flush out a foreign object that was accidentally kicked up by someone's shoe. If that doesn't relieve the problem, or if the injury appears more serious, take Pepe to the vet.

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CHIHUAHUAS AND HYPOGLYCEMIA

Small dogs especially Chihuahuas, have a very low fat reserve around the liver. Hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) takes place in the nervous system. It occurs in mainly toy breeds between six weeks and twelve months of age. Often it is precipitated by stress. This disturbance should particularly be looked for in puppies that are just brought home from the breeder. The first signs are those of listlessness and depression. They are followed by muscular weakness, tremors (especially facial muscles), and later convulsions, coma and death. The entire sequence is not always seen. The dog may simply appear to be depressed or he may be weak, wobbly and jerky; or he may be found in a coma. Hypoglycemia can occur without warning when a puppy is placed in a new home, or while being shipped. It might appear after a puppy misses a meal, chills, becomes exhausted from too much playing, or has a digestive upset. These upsets place an added strain on the energy reserves of the liver and bring on symptoms (if the dog is susceptible). Puppies who are weaned on rice and hamburger are more likely to develop hypoglycemia. We do not wean our puppies on this type of diet because the certain ingredients needed to sustain the liver are absent.

TREATMENT:

Treatment is directed at restoring blood levels of glucose. Begin at once. Prolong or repeated attacks can cause permanent damage to the brain. If the puppy is awake, give him Karo Syrup, honey or sugar in the mouth. We recommend, Nutri-Cal supplement, found in tube form from your pet store. He will begin to improve in 30 minutes. When he is unconscious he will have to be given a Dextrose solution intravenously from the vet. It may be necessary to treat for swelling of the brain. Your veterinarian should be called at once.

PREVENTION:

Prevent recurrent attacks by feeding a high quality kibble diet and add to it sugar, syrup or honey. See the puppy eats at least every eight hours and receives a daily vitamin. Breeders should wean puppies on a balanced diet as we do. Food supplements should not exceed 10 percent of the total ration. Owners of toy puppies should not overtire them or allow them to chill. If you have any questions, please give us a call.

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Children and Chihuahuas

Children and Small Chihuahuas ( maturing under 5 pounds) do not mix. This is not necessarily because the Chihuahua might be aggressive towards children, but because toddlers and small children can easily fall or drop a toy on a Chihuahua, or kick a Chi when suddenly racing across the room, or slamming a door on it. A Chihuahua can instinctively sense that a toddler or child is comparatively speaking, uncoordinated and "out of control" and can pose a danger. This is especially true as children are more uncoordinated and clumsy than adults. Chihuahuas are not only small, but the vast majority of Chihuahuas have a soft-spot on top of their head, making them more prone to injury. Even a child that means well and loves the little dog can accidentally hurt the tiny breed by hugging a Chihuahua too hard or dropping it. Also, children move quickly and impulsively, and can kick or step on a Chihuahua when they run across the room. An active family, however well-meaning, can be very hard on a Chi. The mother, who already has enough to do in the family, would have the worrisome task of "watching out for the Chihuahua" around the clock on a daily basis added to her responsibilities. For families that wish to get a small dog, we would recommend either getting a larger sized Chihuahua that is a little more sturdy. The larger sized Chihuahuas are also loving and make great companions for the whole family. The bonus would be that daily life at home would be more relaxing while the children grow up.

PLEASE BE UNDERSTANDING IF WE WILL NOT PLACE A TINY ONE WITH YOUR FAMILY, IF YOU HAVE CHILDREN UNDER 7 YEARS OLD!

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HEALTH GUARANTEE/ SALES CONTRACT

*CLICK HERE FOR**NEW** Health Guarantee / Sales contract for 2010

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Should You Spay or Neuter Your Dog?

Deciding whether to have your Dog sterilized is one of the first important decisions that you will make as a pet owner. As with all decisions, there are pros and cons that need to be weighed before you decide on whether or not to spay or neuter your puppy.

The Advantages of Sterilization

Perhaps the greatest benefit of spaying and neutering is the decrease in the population of unwanted puppies. Accidental pregnancies and irresponsible breeding are real problems that result in unwanted puppies. These puppies often end up in animal shelters where the lucky ones are adopted and the unlucky ones are euthanized. Both the emotional and financial costs of this problem are staggering and could be avoided with responsible sterilization .Further, it is commonly believed that spaying and neutering can improve the health and attitude of Dogs. Spaying and neutering reduces your Dog’s hormone levels and lead to a significantly lower incidence of certain types of cancers. There is evidence that a female Dog gets the biggest health advantage if she is spayed prior to her first heat. Also, sterilization can reduce the dog’s urge to roam around looking for a mate. Dogs without the urge to roam are easier to control outside and safer because they have a lower risk of getting lost, stolen or hit by a car. Sterilized dogs, particularly male Dogs, are often less aggressive which helps to keep them safe and out of trouble.

The Disadvantages of Sterilization

While there is much evidence regarding the medical advantages of sterilization, there are some disadvantages that you should be aware of prior to taking your Dog in for surgery. First, there is the risk of infection and complications that come with all types of anesthesia and surgical procedures. Second, there is some evidence that the incidence of certain types of cancer rise even while others decrease.Of course, the biggest disadvantage of sterilization is that it often occurs while your dog is a puppy and you lose your option to breed the dog later in life. If your Dog comes from a fine pedigree or you wish to see her deliver puppies and you are prepared for the large amount of work and responsibility that comes with that, then spaying or neutering may not be the best option for you.Many veterinarians and non-profit agencies feel so strongly that dogs should be spayed or neutered that they often help pay the bill if an owner cannot afford the surgery. So, financial factors should not play into your decision regarding sterilization.Sterilization is a personal decision that each Dog owner has to make. It is important to know that you are not depriving your pet of anything and may be working toward making his or her life much healthier. Further, by spaying or neutering your dog you are doing your part to help alleviate the overpopulation problem among dogs. It means that for every puppy that you could have placed in a home another puppy may be adopted rather than euthanized. So, unless you plan to breed your dog, it is important to carefully consider the costs and benefits of sterilization and to make your decision accordingly.

We recommend spay/neuter between the age of 4 - 6 months.

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Is pet insurance right for you?

A decade ago, had you told someone you were considering pet insurance for your dog, they'd have looked at you like you had two heads. Why not go ahead and buy him braces, too?

Today, pet insurance is a $200-million-plus industry, with not only vets but the ASPCA and the American Kennel Club promoting it. The question is, is it right for you?

How does pet insurance work?

In many ways, pet insurance plans aren't much different from what's available for humans. Most cover accident and/or illness, and some have preventive medicine options available as well. They all have a deductible, and all have exclusions for certain preexisting or breed-common conditions.

Be sure to read the fine print. For instance, most act just like human insurance companies and cover only what they deem eligible, less deductible and co-pay. In other words, your reimbursement may be far smaller than you think it should be.

Ask the right questions before you buy

Just as with human health insurance, there are some fairly major differences among policies, so make sure you get the answers to the following questions (along with any others you may have) before you sign on the dotted line:

Do I pay first, then get reimbursed?

You will probably have to pay your dog's medical bill at the vet's office, and then get reimbursed by your pet insurance company. Make sure that's the case, and learn just how simple (or not!) the claims process is, and the average time it takes to get your reimbursement check.

Can I use any vet, or a network of providers?

If there are certain doctors you must choose from in order to get reimbursed, make sure your favorite vets are on the list.

How hefty is the deductible?

The lower the deductible, the higher your monthly premiums will be, and vice versa. And see if there's a limit on the number of claims or visits you can make in a year (or over the life of the policy). If your dog is prone to eating things she shouldn’t, take note that some companies only allow surgical removal of ingested items once every 12 months.

Does the insurance plan end when my dog reaches a certain age?

Many policies are designed only for young, relatively healthy dogs. You may need a different policy entirely for an older dog or one with a chronic condition (and those are available, too).

When does coverage begin?

Does it kick in immediately, or does it require a visit to the vet first? Almost every plan has a waiting period of at least a few days for certain conditions—some are as long as a year.

Is there a cap on coverage?

It can be as low as a few thousand dollars annually or as high as tens of thousands--but know before you sign.

How long is the policy in effect?

Unlike human health insurance, pet policies tend to be short-lived; most are only a year long and are renewable only with the company's approval. Most reputable companies won't count illnesses that were treated during the previous coverage period as preexisting conditions, but you'll want to be sure about that.

So is pet insurance right for me?

In the end, pet insurance will be right for some and not right for others. Give some thought to your dog's specific needs, like chronic conditions and age. Consider your finances, too. A full-coverage plan for illness and injury will cost much more than an accident-only plan. And don't overlook the value of preventive care coverage, especially for younger pups. If you do decide you want to purchase pet insurance, once you have a list of the conditions you want coverage for—and the monthly premium you can afford—it’s much easier to wade through all the pet insurance plan options.

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New Puppy Instructions and Tips

Foods:

- Dry kibble currently being fed is Kirkland Chicken, Rice and Vegetable adult chow, ( Manufactured by Diamond for Costco) all one color kibble. This is “free feed” available 24/7 for the pup as well as fresh water. ( you will find a complete nutritional breakdown in your puppypack)

- CHIHUAHUAS:

- Please give your new pup 2-3 small pea sized globs of the Fortical at least 3 times a day for the first two days puppy is new to your home and family. Many times puppies will be so excited/nervous about all the changes and missing their siblings that they do not take in enough calories. In the Chihuahuas this could be very serious and induce stress related Hypoglycemia. Please keep new stimulations to a minimum when your puppy goes home with you for the first week. Please give the Fortical whenever you are traveling with your pup until they are completely comfortable traveling. You will find a new tube of Fortical in your gift bag / puppy pack.

- If you are worried that your puppy/dog will not eat, here are a few human foods to try:

Chicken- you can buy a ready to go roasted one at one of your neighborhood grocery stores for $6-$8, or roast one yourself. I have never met a dog that could resist roasted chicken! I also have a recipe for canned chicken and rice, please let me know if you would like it to fix for your doggy. Dairy products- Cottage cheese, yogurt, cheese Human Baby food, scrambled egg, are also great nutrition sources for proteins and easy on the tummy!

LOOSE STOOL: ˝ soaked kibble , ˝ cooked rice, brown or white will help firm stools.

A word about Vaccinations:

Until your puppy has ALL their shots, you are it’s environmental protection against disease! Here is a simplified example of how Vaccinations work:

I have a litter of 10 puppies. I give the first vaccination at 7 weeks, only 5 puppies immune systems are developed enough to make antibodies to those diseases. I give the second vaccination at 10 weeks, another two pups develop antibodies. I give the third vaccination and the remaining two pups HOPEFULLY have developed antibodies. I give a fourth just to make sure, SINCE I HAVE NO WAY OF KNOWING WHO HAS DEVELOPED ANTIBODIES!! The ONLY sure way to know if your pup has developed antibodies to any disease is to have a “ Blood Titer test “ done at your veterinarians office . This can be expensive but worth it if you really want to know.

Physical and environmental protection instructions:

NO dog Parks, NO rest areas on highways, ALWAYS take your puppy in a carrier to the vet’s office, DO NOT set the carrier on the floor, DO NOT allow other clients to touch your puppy, DO NOT allow other animals in the office to have contact with your puppy. THEY ARE THERE BECAUSE THEY HAVE MORE THAN LIKELY BROUGHT A SICK ANIMAL IN. If they weigh scale is a rubber matted one and does not get sanitized after each animal is weighed, please ask your technician to place a sanitized towel on the scale and re-zero it before you place your puppy on it. I am very strict about this, if they will not do it, find another vet. They are providing a service to you and should cater to your wishes, mine do!

Please DO NOT leave your puppy unattended on any surface higher than the top of their head. ( even if they are sleeping and you don’t want to wake them!) It may not be a tremendous distance but, the Chihuahuas have delicate limbs and a “MOLERA” ( soft spot) and can injury themselves severely. The Frenchies and FrenchBos are very spontaneous and can leap from your arms in split seconds. REPEATED jarring and shocks to their front legs will more than likely cause them to be deformed as an adult! So, please do not allow them to even jump down off of a chair as a young pup, even though they do not appear to have difficulty doing it!

PLEASE PURCHASE A JINGLE BELL FOR YOUR PUPPY’S COLLAR!

This will keep you from stepping on them and shutting them in doors, also it makes it easier to find them when you can’t see them!

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Chihuahua Care

Chihuahuas, like any other purebred dog, need some special care.

WHAT TO DO FIRST:

You should have already decided where you are going to keep your puppy safe while they are getting use to their new surroundings of the inside of your house. You don't want to overwhelm your puppy by giving them the run of your house or have them find something you have missed and they get hurt. The best thing to do is to put your puppy in an x-pen or gated room. X-pens can be purchased at Pet Smart and Petco. Starting them off on a small area of your home, is the best thing to do because they aren't completely potty trained and you will want them to get use to this area first! This area will have their crate, bedding, litter box, toys, food, and water.

POTTY TRAINING:

Your puppy has started to learn to go potty here. They are use to going potty in litter boxes and using newspaper. Please see the other packet in your starter pack that explains Litter Box use. The key is PATIENCE and being CONSISTANT in potty training. Never rub their nose in the spot they had the accident at, spank them ,or scream and yell at them, because most of the time, you have found their mess and not catching them in the act of doing their business where they weren't suppose to! They will not have a clue why you are so angry with them? Accidents Happen, So What! They will learn eventually to go potty where they are suppose to. Yelling and screaming at your puppy could cause your puppy to think that going to potty is wrong and this could cause your puppy to become sneaky and hide that they went potty some where else. (This could lead to poop eating) So just calmly pick up your puppy and take them to their potty area and clean up their mess. Don't get to hard on your puppy until they are about 12 weeks old. After that, you need to enforce your rules with potty training and get onto them more. Be Patient and Consistent! Please don’t forget to reward and praise, this is the often forgotton finish to training procedures!! REMEMBER they have to go potty after they get up from sleeping, after they eat, and after playing. Taking your Chihuahua out after these important times, will save you from cleaning up the mess, and your Chihuahua will be so excited to please you!

GROOMING:

Chihuahuas don't need to be groomed too much! You only want to bath your Chihuahua when it is only necessary to do so! Short hair or long hair Chihuahuas can be bathed but you can make them smell better by just using a baby wipe or dog wipe. The only grooming that you will need to do on the long hair Chihuahuas, is to trim around their behinds and down their back legs. This grooming is only to keep this area clean! You can bath your Chihuahua in your kitchen sink. It is easier on your back! You will need to hold on to your Chihuahua at all times. Make sure you use a rubber sink mat to give some traction for your Chihuahua's feet. This will make your Chihuahua feel more secure. You can put some cotton balls in your Chihuahua's ears, but do it carefully. This will prevent water from getting into your Chihuahua's ears. Remember not to place the cotton balls too deeply in their ears and remember to take the cotton balls out of their ears when their bath is done. Use a spray nozzle to wet and rinse your puppy. Make sure that the water isn't too hot or too cold, by testing the temperature on your forearm. Lower the water pressure if you’re Chihuahua becomes nervous because it may scare your puppy. If you use flea shampoo, read the directions to see how old your puppy has to be before you use the flea shampoo. (Most likely it is over 12 weeks old) You will want to the flea shampoo around your puppy's neck and work into lather. The fleas will make their way to the puppy's face, mostly around their eyes and nose. So if you put the flea shampoo around their neck, this will create a barrier, so that the fleas will die when they are trying to get to your puppy's face. Chihuahuas chill easily, so give them a bath quickly but do a thorough job! Rinse until the water runs clear and then rinse again. Any shampoo left in the coat, can irritate your Chihuahua's skin. For long coat Chihuahuas, they will benefit from a conditioner. This will help with tangles and it will wash out any remaining shampoo. Dry your Chihuahua thoroughly. Don't let your Chihuahua go outside until they are completely dry. If you use a blow dryer, use the low or cool setting on the dryer. Your dog's skin is sensitive and if the setting is put on high on your blow dryer, it is usually too hot! Giving your puppy a treat after their bath is always appreciated! Don't forget to wash your dog's bedding on the same day you give your Chihuahua a bath. It is no use to have a fresh and clean smelling puppy, if they are only going to go back to sleep on their smelly bedding! Since Chihuahuas are most often indoor dogs, their nails will need trimming. Trim at least once per month. Start this routine early and be consistent. It will help your dog become used to the clippers as well as having its paws handled. Ask your veterinarian about a schedule for periodic cleaning of your dog’s ears and teeth and for vaccinations. A Chihuahua’s large eyes attract dust and dirt. And, being so close to the ground, it will pick up quite a lot. So, Chihuahuas produce tears to cleanse their eyes. It is normal to see the area around the eye slightly wet. The tears should be clear with the consistency of water. Should the tears have any other appearance, consult your veterinarian immediately. Chis are delightful, hardy little dogs. Given the proper care, they will thrive for many years.

TOYS FOR CHIHUAHUAS:

You want to make sure that the toy isn't too small or too big for your Chihuahua. Most stuff animals for dogs are made for dogs weighing over 10 pounds. Pet Smart and Petco have small toys that you can buy that are for small dogs. I have even found small toys at Wal-mart for dogs. You can also check out the toy aisle for kids, to see if they have any small toys that you can give to your Chihuahua. However, make sure that the toy has securely sewn seams, sewn on eyes, or anything that your puppy can chew off and get caught in their throat and choke on it. Never buy any toy that has beanie like pellets inside the toy. They can become very dangerous if your Chihuahua manages to chew open a hole. I like sticking to toys made for dogs the best! Chihuahuas do like bigger toys any way and love to cuddle with them too! Keep out plenty of toys that are made from rubber, vinyl and soft fabric balls. Dogs enjoy a Kong toy because the Kong has a hollow center, where you can put their treats or peanut butter in. Hiding toys for dogs will entertain them for hours and it also will help them develop your dog's intelligence.

BEDDING:

You can check out the cat aisle an see if there might be a bed small enough for your Chihuahua Be creative and get your Chihuahua puppy a nice bed that they will sleep in. Of coarse there is always your bed they can sleep in, but be careful, they could have an accident in your bed, so make sure that you take your puppy potty before they go to bed with you and during the night, and after they wake up in the morning. Since your Chihuahua puppy is small, you might want to get a basket that is not too big but just big enough to have your puppy sleep in bed with you. Some people are afraid of sleeping with a Chihuahua because of the fear of laying on them during the night. This may prevent this from happening. However, the best place for your Chihuahua is in their own bed! Your Chihuahua's bedding could be anything from baby blankets, your own blankets, sheets ~ flannel or Jersey, or anything that is soft and they can cuddle up in it.

Puppy Litter Box Training

Here are basic instructions on litter box training your puppy!

For more information you can also visit: www.doglitter.com , this is a site by Purina and has an excellent tutorial online as well as coupons and offers for thier litter box system.

1. Choose an area in your home with solid flooring such as tile or linolium to set your puppys "room" up in. This can be a laundry room, bathroom or kitchen. Use an expandable baby gate to limit where puppy can roam.

2. Use puppy's crate (door taken off) or a covered box with a nice bed in it for puppy's "bedroom". The bed can be fancy or plain, just make sure it is comfortable and washable. Puppy will need this private area for naps, sleeping at night or just plain relaxing and getting away from stimulus.

3. Always make sure there is fresh water and dry puppy chow for puppy available AT ALL TIMES.

4. Spread weewee pads or newspapers in a 3x3 area and set litter box in the center. This for two reasons- first, it will give asurface for puppy to discard any litter that has carried out on his feet, second, if puppy is not 100% successfull at first and has a near miss, it will not be on your floor.

5. Litter box should be only 1/2 full of litter, and not too tall for puppy to jump in and out of. A small cat size pan will work fine, as puppy grows you may need to graduate to a larger pan, also you will want a larger pan if you have more than one pup using it. Scoop and / or replace litter as often as needed.

6. Puppy should stay confined to this area at all times in the begining UNLESS you are directly supervising and can take puppy to it when you see behaviour that indicates puppy needs to potty. Gradually enlarge the area puppy can roam in by using the baby gates(s) until puppy has run of the whole house!

7. REMEMBER TO PRAISE, PRAISE PRAISE!!!

TIPS:

Recycled wood products or paper products seem to work much better in the pelleted litter than do plant derived litter pellets. Also the size of the pellet seems to make a difference with how successfully the pups take to it. Purina makes a cat pellet litter called "good mews" , it is a smaller pellet.

Cost is not a factor in using this system! We purchase a recycled wood pelleted animal bedding product from our farmer's co-op that is only $5.00 for a 35 pound bag. A small cat pan will run around $2-$3. A litter scoop is under a buck!

Just remember- it doesn't have to be fancy or expensive, it just has to be clean and consistant!

ULTIMATELY the success of any potty training system is the responsibilty of the human moms and dads involved. Remember you are in charge of setting your puppy up for success in ALL things and sometimes you need to look at things from thier point of view to do this! Please go to our website at www.puppygramnet.com and read "a letter from your puppy"!

Good luck and should you need encouragement or help with any litter box or chihuahua questions, please do not hesitate to call us anytime!

Thank you, Mary and Victor! 541-459-5951, 541-459-5802, www.puppygramnet.com (website), uvkennels@gmail.com (email)

What To Bring When Picking Up Your Puppy!

Congratulations on your new baby!! Here is a good supply list for the car When you come to pickup baby:

1. Crate ( medium size is good.)

2. Soft towels to line the crate, 4-5 extras in case of car sickness or Potty accident.

3. Wet wipes, paper towels for puppy cleanup and plastic grocery bags for poo poo pickup if needed durring stops.

4. A couple bottles of water and small dish, can be a plastic storage type as long as it isn't too deep.

5. A soft mesh type harness and leash, please remind me the week before you pick her up to get her measurements so you can pick out the correct size!

6. A stretchy ( small section of elastic) kitty collar with a bell, if the bell is not too noticable, please purchase a larger "jingle bell" at a craft store ( such as Michaels)

Your baby will not be eating on the road, just possibly thirsty. Feeding them while traveling at this age will just contribute to the possibility of car sickness. If Chihuahua baby, we will be feeding a little fortical before you get into the car.

You will be given a gift bag when you pick Baby up and about an hour's worth of orientation and counseling, you should feel absolutely confident you know what your doing by the time you leave with your new baby!

The bag will consist of: a soft blanky, up to 2 pounds of the current kibble your baby is eating here, several breed appropriate toys, one new tube of Fortical ( if chihuahua ).

please make sure you read the information on the required reading page for the type of puppy you are purchasing, we will be going over much of it when you pick him/her up! ( Orientation and paperwork takes 45-60 mins. )